FREE Crochet Lace Top Pattern & Video Tutorial – Daisy Tee – Plus Size Inclusive

by | Mar 15, 2022

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Want to crochet a lace top for spring and summer?  Here’s the free crochet pattern you’re looking for!  This plus size inclusive women’s lace tee is crocheted in a floral lace stitch with no shaping.  Crochet your own with this free crochet top pattern and video tutorial.

 

Summer crochet projects are some of my favorite things to make.  I’ve always lived in warm climates, and although there are some times of the year that I can wear cozy sweaters, hats, and scarves, most of the time, I’m looking for lightweight, warm-weather crochet tops that I can throw on with a pair of shorts.

The Daisy Tee is perfect for your spring and summer wardrobe for so many reasons.  Not only is it lightweight and comfy, but the lace crochet stitch pattern makes it cute, feminine and breathable.


woman standing outdoors wearing bright yellow lace crochet tee with jean shorts

 

When I designed this top, I knew I wanted it to be simple and boxy, with lovely drape, and in a floral lace stitch pattern.  It’s really important with summer projects to choose a smooth yarn with very little fuzz to it, so I opted for WeCrochet Hawthorne Fingering Kettle Dye.  (Thanks to WeCrochet for providing the yarn for this pattern!)

Hawthorne is smooth and sturdy with high twist, and not fuzzy at all.  It comes in over 20 hand-dyed tonal colorways, and best of all, is machine washable.

But just because it’s primarily made from superwash wool doesn’t mean it’s only for winter!  Wool is a temperature-regulating fiber, so it helps keep you warm in the winter, but it can also keep you cool in the summer if it’s made into a lightweight fabric.

closeup of wecrochet hawthorne fingering yarn in bright yellow tonal dyed compass colorway

 

How do you Crochet a Ladies Summer Top?

There are many ways to crochet a top, but the Daisy Tee is made with a pretty simple boxy construction method.  The front panel and back panel are exactly the same, and each is a modified rectangle.

We start at the bottom edge, crochet our lace stitch pattern up to the base of the T-shaped sleeve, and then add width to the upper portion of the rectangle for the sleeves.  We then continue in our lace stitch pattern to finish off the upper portion of the tee. Once both the front and back pieces are crocheted, we block them and sew a few simple seams to join them together.

(You could adapt this pattern to make crochet tank tops by just continuing to work the lace crochet pattern without adding width for the sleeves.  It would make just a rectangle, which you could seam together just like in this pattern for a sleeveless top instead of a short sleeve top.)

The Daisy Tee comes in two different lengths, so you can choose the look you want.  There’s a full length version, as well as a slightly cropped version.  (The cropped version is not as short as a typical crochet crop top, but it is designed to fall a few inches below the waist.)  The cropped version in size XS is shown in the photos on a petite model.

 

Check out more free summer crochet patterns from Yay For Yarn:

1. Driftwood Tee / 2. Diamond Cardigan / 3. Seafoam Cardigan

 

How to Choose the Best Yarn for Women’s Crochet Summer Tops

The most important thing to look for when picking yarn for a crochet lace top is no fuzz.  Fuzziness in a yarn helps to trap body heat, and makes the finished garment less breathable.  This is great when you’re making something that should keep you warm, but not for anything you would wear on hot summer days!

For the Daisy Tee, you’ll need a #1 Superfine yarn with little to no surface fuzz.  I like to use easy care, machine washable yarns for garment projects, and WeCrochet Hawthorne is a great choice.  But if you want to substitute a different yarn, here’s what to look for…

The yarn should say #1 Superfine / Fingering Weight on the label.  It should also be smooth and low-fuzz, and soft enough to be worn against the skin.  One quick way to test if a yarn is soft enough is to rub it on the side of your neck.  If it doesn’t feel scratchy or irritating, the yarn is soft enough for a garment project.

As for fiber content, linen, bamboo, or cotton yarn will work well for this project.  Superfine yarns are lightweight yarns, so as long as the yarn is soft and not fuzzy, it will likely work well for summer season garments.

You can use a Size 3 crochet thread if you like, as Size 3 thread is in the #1 Superfine category in the yarn weight system.

Be sure to purchase enough skeins of the yarn you want to use so that you have at least the total number of yards required in the pattern for the size you are making.

For more tips on choosing the best yarns for summer garments, check out this post.

4 skeins of bright yellow hand dyed yarn on white marble, with furls odyssey purple crochet hook, stitch markers, and yarn needles

 

How do I Choose a Size?

The Daisy Tee crochet pattern is plus size inclusive, and includes 9 sizes, from a women’s Extra Small to a 5X.  (Pattern is written for XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, and 5XL.)  To decide which size you want to make, you’ll need to measure around the fullest part of the bust.  Then, follow the instructions in the “Sizing” section of the pattern to select the size according to the wearer’s bust measurement.

You’ll also need to choose which length you prefer.  The pattern includes instructions for both a full length version and a cropped version.  The cropped version is shown in the photos on a petite model.  I recommend measuring the finished back length of the tee against the wearer to get an idea of how the length of the tee will fall.  Once you’ve chosen which length you want, follow the instructions and yarn requirements for that length option.

side of daisy tee - free crochet lace top pattern in yellow yarn

 

What Skill Levels Can Crochet the Daisy Tee?

The Daisy Tee involves very little shaping, as it is made from modified rectangles.  However, it is made in a lace stitch pattern, so you’ll need to know how to read and follow written crochet pattern instructions.  If you like crochet symbol charts, you’ll definitely want to grab the premium PDF version of the pattern, which includes a chart for the lace stitch pattern.

The lace stitch pattern uses mostly double crochet stitches with some chains and single crochet stitches.  Confident beginners who are comfortable with pattern reading may be able to follow this top crochet pattern, as the lace is only made up of basic crochet stitches.

For this project, you’ll need to know how to count stitches and rows, how to work into chain spaces, skip stitches, and “read” your crochet fabric.  If you are familiar with those techniques, you can make this project!

 

Ready to crochet The Daisy Tee?

 

 

Daisy Tee

Crochet Pattern by Yay For Yarn

Click Here to grab the Large-Print, Ad-Free, Printable PDF Version of this pattern in my shop.


Project Level: Intermediate

 

Sizing:

  • Sizing follows the Craft Yarn Council’s standards for Women’s sizes.
  • This tee has a loose, oversized fit, with about 5” to 9” (about 12.5-23 cm) of positive ease.  If you are between sizes, size up if you want a much looser-fitting tee, or size down if you want a more fitted tee.  Measure the bust of the wearer, and choose the size that is closest to the wearer’s bust measurement, under the title “To Fit Bust”.
  • Pattern includes instructions for two lengths, a slightly cropped version and a full length version.  Please compare the finished length of the tee given in the instructions to the wearer’s body to see which version of the tee you would like to make.  Cropped version is shown in pattern photos on a petite model.
  • Instructions and yarn requirements for size X-Small are given outside the parentheses, with Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X given inside the parentheses, like this:  X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).
  • When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.  To follow pattern more easily, circle or highlight all numbers that apply to your size before beginning.

 

To Fit Bust:

30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62)” / 76 (86.5, 96.5, 106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147.5, 157.5) cm

 

Finished Bust:

35.5 (40.5, 46, 51, 51, 56, 61, 66, 71)” / 90 (103, 117, 130, 130, 142, 155, 168, 180) cm

 

Finished Back Length:

Cropped Version: 16.8 (16.8, 18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 20.4, 20.4)” / 42.5 (42.5, 47, 47, 47, 47, 47, 52, 52) cm

Full-Length Version: 20.4 (20.4, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 24, 24)” / 52 (52, 56, 56, 56, 56, 56, 61, 61) cm

 

Yarn:

For Cropped Version: 611 (680, 838, 915, 915, 992, 1068, 1264, 1348) Yards of #1 Superfine / Fingering Weight Yarn

For Full Length Version: 714 (798, 971, 1062, 1062, 1153, 1245, 1455, 1554) Yards of #1 Superfine / Fingering Weight Yarn

I used WeCrochet Hawthorne Fingering Kettle Dye in Compass, 80% Fine Superwash Highland Wool, 20% Polyamide (Nylon), 3.5 oz / 100g / 357 yds per skein, 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins for cropped version, 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) skeins for full length version

 

You Will Also Need:

  • US Size F / 3.75 mm Crochet Hook
  • Scissors
  • Measuring Tape
  • Yarn Needle or Blunt Tapestry Needle
  • (You may also want to have some stitch markers to keep track of the end of each stitch pattern repeat, just to make it easy to count the repeats quickly, but this is optional.)

 

Gauge: 22 stitches = 4” (10 cm); 11 rows = 4” (10 cm) in Double Crochet

 

Abbreviations:

st(s): stitch(es)

sk: skip

nxt: next

ea: each

sp: space

beg: beginning

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

*Fdc: foundation double crochet

*CSSC: chainless starting single crochet

*CSDC: chainless starting double crochet

*This is a special stitch.  See instructions below to learn how to work this stitch.

 

 

Special Stitches

 

Foundation Double Crochet (video tutorial here)

To begin, chain 3. Yarn over, insert hook into the 3rd chain from the hook. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through one loop on hook. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through 2 remaining loops on hook.

For all following stitches: Turn work upside-down so the bottom (foundation) edge is facing you. On the bottom of the previous stitch, there is what looks like the top of a normal crochet stitch (the chain from the previous stitch). Yarn over and insert hook into both strands of that “stitch”. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through one loop on hook (chain made). Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through 2 remaining loops on hook.

 

Chainless Starting Single Crochet: (video tutorial here)

Stretch loop on hook slightly. Insert hook in the same stitch the loop is coming from. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook.

 

Chainless Starting Double Crochet: (video tutorial here)

Stretch loop on hook until it is slightly longer than a regular double crochet. Holding the top of the loop still with your finger, yarn over with the stretched loop on your hook (not the working yarn) 1 time. Insert the hook into the same stitch the loop is coming from. Yarn over, pull up a loop of yarn. (Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook) 2 times.

 

 

Pattern for Gauge Swatch

Each chain counts as a stitch, unless otherwise noted at the end of the row.

 

Row 1: Ch 3, fdc in 3rd ch from hook.  Work 41 more fdc sts.  <42 sts, not including beg chs.>

OR

Row 1: Ch 44, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in ea ch across.  <42 sts, not including beg chs.>

 

Row 2: Turn.  CSDC in same st.  Dc in nxt 5 sts.  *Ch 3, sk 2, dc in nxt 12 sts.*  Repeat from *to* once more.  Ch 3, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 sts.  <45 sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 3: Turn.  CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 3 sts.  *Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 8 sts.*  Repeat from *to* once more.  Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 4 sts.  <45 sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 4: Turn.  CSDC in same st, dc in nxt st. *Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 4 sts.*  Repeat from *to* once more.  Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 2 sts.  <45 sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 5: Turn.  CSDC in same st, dc in nxt st.  *2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 4 sts.*  Repeat from *to* once more.  2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in last 2 sts.  <45 sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 6: Turn.  CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 3 sts.  *2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 8 sts.*  Repeat from *to* once more.  2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp,  dc in last 4 sts.  <42 sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 7: Turn.  CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 5 sts.  *2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 5 sts, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 5 sts.*  Repeat from *to* once more.  2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in last 6 sts.  <44 sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 8: Turn.  CSSC in same st.  Ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 8 sts.  *Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 8 sts.*  Repeat from *to* once more.  Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in last st.  <46 sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 9: Turn.  CSDC in same st.  Ch 2, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 4 sts.  *Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 4 sts.*  Repeat from *to* once more.  Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, dc in last sc of row.  <48 sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 10: Turn.  CSSC in same st.  Ch 3, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.  *Dc in nxt 4 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.*  Repeat from *to* once more.  Dc in nxt 4 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in last dc of row.  <46 sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 11: Turn.  CSDC in same st.  2 dc in nxt ch-sp.  *Dc in nxt 8 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.*  Repeat from *to* once more.  Dc in nxt 8 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in last sc of row.  <42 sts, including ch sts.>

 

Repeat Rows 2-11 once more.

 

Row 12: Turn.  CSDC in same st.  *Dc in nxt 12 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.*  Repeat from *to* once more.  Dc in nxt 13 sts.  <42 sts.>

 

Tie off, block, and measure gauge.  After blocking, swatch should measure 7.5” (19 cm) wide by 7.5” (19 cm) long.

girl outdoors in front of dark green bushes walking away from camera, wearing yellow crochet top

 

Daisy Tee

Notes:

This tee is made in two pieces, one for the front and one for the back.  Each piece is crocheted from the bottom up.  When we reach the base of the armhole, we will add width for the sleeves.  We will then continue working in our stitch pattern until we have finished the panel.  The front and back panels will be seamed together to finish the tee.

 

This pattern begins with a row of foundation double crochet instead of a foundation chain. The foundation double crochet is simple to work, and makes the foundation chain and the first row of double crochet at the same time. The foundation edge, when worked in this way, has much more stretch and flexibility than a regular foundation chain. I highly recommend using the foundation double crochet to begin your panel, but instructions for a regular foundation chain and row of double crochet are also included.

 

Each chain counts as a stitch, unless otherwise noted at the end of the row.

 

Front / Back (make 2)

Begin by leaving a tail at least 1 yard long for seaming.

Row 1: Ch 3, fdc in 3rd ch from hook.  Work 97 (111, 125, 139, 139, 153, 167, 181, 195) more fdc.  <You should have a total of 98 (112, 126, 140, 140, 154, 168, 182, 196) sts, not including beg chs.>

OR

Row 1: Ch 100 (114, 128, 142, 142, 156, 170, 184, 198).  Sk 2 chs, dc in 3rd ch from hook and in ea ch st across.  <You should have a total of 98 (112, 126, 140, 140, 154, 168, 182, 196) sts, not including beg chs.>

 

Row 2: Turn.  CSDC in same st.  Dc in nxt 5 sts.  *Ch 3, sk 2, dc in nxt 12 sts.*  Repeat from *to* until 8 sts remain.  Ch 3, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 sts.  <105 (120, 135, 150, 150, 165, 180, 195, 210) sts, including ch sts.>

Note: This is the first row in the stitch pattern.  When you work Row 2 for the first time, it is worked into a row of plain double crochet.  However, when you are instructed to repeat Row 2 in the instructions that follow after Row 11, all of the remaining times you repeat Row 2, it will be worked across Row 11, which has some ch-2 spaces in it.  So when you are repeating Row 2, and the pattern says to “dc in nxt 12 sts”, you will be working across a span of stitches that includes a ch-2 space.  You can either double crochet in each individual chain stitch of the ch-2 space, or you can work 2 dc in the ch-2 space.  It’s up to you. 😉

 

Row 3: Turn.  CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 3 sts.  *Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 8 sts.*  Repeat from *to* until 11 sts remain.  Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 4 sts.  <105 (120, 135, 150, 150, 165, 180, 195, 210) sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 4: Turn.  CSDC in same st, dc in nxt st. *Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 4 sts.*  Repeat from *to* until 13 sts remain.  Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 2 sts.  <105 (120, 135, 150, 150, 165, 180, 195, 210) sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 5: Turn.  CSDC in same st, dc in nxt st.  *2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 4 sts.*  Repeat from *to* until 13 sts remain.  2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in last 2 sts.  <105 (120, 135, 150, 150, 165, 180, 195, 210) sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 6: Turn.  CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 3 sts.  *2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 8 sts.*  Repeat from *to* until 11 sts remain.  2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in last 4 sts.  <98 (112, 126, 140, 140, 154, 168, 182, 196) sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 7: Turn.  CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 5 sts.  *2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 5 sts, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 5 sts.*  Repeat from *to* until 8 sts remain.  2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in last 6 sts.  <104 (119, 134, 149, 149, 164, 179, 194, 209) sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 8: Turn.  CSSC in same st.  Ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 8 sts.  *Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 8 sts.*  Repeat from *to* until 3 sts remain.  Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in last st.  <106 (121, 136, 151, 151, 166, 181, 196, 211) sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 9: Turn.  CSDC in same st.  Ch 2, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 4 sts.  *Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 4 sts.*  Repeat from *to* until 6 sts remain.  Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, dc in last sc of row.  <108 (123, 138, 153, 153, 168, 183, 198, 213) sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 10: Turn.  CSSC in same st.  Ch 3, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.  *Dc in nxt 4 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.*  Repeat from *to* until 11 sts remain.  Dc in nxt 4 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk nxt sc, sc in last dc of row.  <106 (121, 136, 151, 151, 166, 181, 196, 211) sts, including ch sts.>

 

Row 11: Turn.  CSDC in same st.  2 dc in nxt ch-sp.  *Dc in nxt 8 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk nxt sc, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.*  Repeat from *to* until 12 sts remain.  Dc in nxt 8 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in last sc of row.  <98 (112, 126, 140, 140, 154, 168, 182, 196) sts, including ch sts.>

 

For Cropped Version, repeat Rows 2-11 once more.  For Full-Length Version, repeat Rows 2-11 two more times.

 

Repeat Rows 2-6.

 

yellow lace crochet stitch project on white marble, with cakes of yellow yarn and purple furls crochet hook

 

We will now add width to each side of our piece for the sleeves.

 

Row 12: Ch 30, turn.  Sk 2 chs, dc in 3rd ch from hook.  Dc in nxt 12 chs.  *Ch 3, sk 2 sts, dc in nxt 12 sts.*  Repeat from *to* until 1 st remains.  Dc in last st.  <134 (149, 164, 179, 179, 194, 209, 224, 239) sts, not including the ch 30 at beg of row.>

 

Row 13: Ch 28, turn.  Sk 1 ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook.  Ch 3, sk 2 chs, dc in nxt 8 chs.  Ch 3, sk 2 chs, sc in nxt ch, ch 3, sk 3 chs, dc in nxt 8 sts.  Ch 3, sk 2 chs, sc in nxt st, ch 3, sk 2, dc in nxt 8 sts.  *Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in nxt ch-sp, ch 3, sk 2 dc, dc in nxt 8 sts.*  Repeat from *to* until 3 sts remain.  Ch 3, sk 2 dc, sc in last st.  <166 (181, 196, 211, 211, 226, 241, 256, 271) sts, not including the ch 28 at beg of row.>

 

Repeat Rows 9-11.  

Repeat Rows 2-11; 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) more time(s).  For sizes X-Small, Small, 4X, and 5X, repeat Rows 2-6 once more.

 

Row 14: Turn.  CSDC in same st.  Dc in each st across.  (At each ch-sp, you can either dc in each ch st, or work 2 dc in the ch-2 space.)  <154 (168, 182, 196, 196, 210, 224, 238, 252) sts.>

 

Tie off, leaving a tail about 2 feet long.

closeup of shoulder of yellow daisy tee - crochet summer top pattern

 

To Block: (video tutorial here)

For natural fibers, pin project out on foam blocking mats. Spray with water until fully saturated, allow to dry.

OR

For acrylic fibers, pin project out on an ironing board or several layers of towels. Hold a steaming iron 2-3” over the surface of the fabric, making sure all of the fabric is penetrated by the steam. Allow to cool / dry.

 

Block to Approximate Finished Measurements:

Width at foundation edge: 17.8 (20.4, 23, 25.5, 25.5, 28, 30.5, 33, 35.6) inches OR 45 (52, 58.5, 64.5, 64.5, 71, 77.5, 84, 90.5) cm.

Width at top edge: 28 (30.5, 33, 35.6, 35.6, 38, 40.7, 43.3, 45.8) inches OR 71 (77.5, 84, 90.5, 90.5, 96.5, 103.5, 110, 116) cm.

 

Length from foundation edge to top edge: 16.8 (16.8, 18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 18.5, 20.4, 20.4)” OR 42.5 (42.5, 47, 47, 47, 47, 47, 52, 52) cm for cropped version, 20.4 (20.4, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22, 24, 24)” OR 52 (52, 56, 56, 56, 56, 56, 61, 61) cm for full-length version.

front view of girl wearing yellow crochet crop top with denim shorts

 

Assembly:

Lay your front and back pieces out in front of you, with the wrong sides together, making sure both foundation edges are at the bottom.

 

Side Seams:

Thread one of the long yarn tails from the bottom corner of the piece through your yarn needle, and whip stitch the front and back of one side of the tee together at the side seam.  When you reach the top of the side edge, continue whip stitching the horizontal edges of the sleeve from both the front and the back together.  Tie off, weave in the yarn tail.

Repeat seaming instructions for other side seam.

 

Shoulder Seams:

Thread one of the yarn tails from the top edge of the piece through your yarn needle. Starting at the top corner, begin whip stitching the two panels together across the top edge. Stop when your seam is about 8.5 (9.8, 10.5, 11.3, 10.8, 12, 13, 14, 15) inches OR 21.5 (25, 26.5, 28.5, 27.5, 30.5, 33, 35.5, 38) cm long. Take one more stitch in the same place as the previous stitch, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull the needle through to make a knot. Weave in the yarn tail.

Thread the other yarn tail at the other top corner through your yarn needle. Repeat the same instructions for the previous shoulder seam with that tail on the other side, and weave in all remaining yarn tails.

 

Enjoy your finished Daisy Tee!

 

This pattern is intended for your personal use only. You may not share it, copy it, sell it, give it away, or mass-produce the finished product. However, you may sell the finished items on a small scale, as long as you convey in your item description that you used a Yay For Yarn pattern.

Yay For Yarn Copyright© 2021 – Current. All patterns and photos are owned by Yay For Yarn.


 

Don’t forget to post photos of your finished Daisy Tee!  Be sure to tag me on Instagram @yayforyarn and use #yayforyarnpatterns for a chance to be featured.

Pin the image below to save this project for later!

 

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If squeezing yarn, collecting yarn, or making stuff from yarn is your thing, you’ll feel right at home here. My mission is to share the joy of yarn crafts with makers of all skill levels by creating clear, thoroughly-explained video tutorials and modern, approachable projects. So, whether you’re a newbie or you’ve been yarning for years, stick around and check out some of my FREE patterns & tutorials!
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Yay For Yarn

Hi! Thanks for stopping by. Knitting and crochet are my passion, and I love helping others create beautiful things from yarn. If you enjoyed this post, why not check out some of my other free patterns, tips, and tutorials? Happy Yarning!

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