This easy, size inclusive crochet top pattern is great for summer!  Crochet your own with this free crochet pattern & video tutorial.

Crochet summer tops are some of my favorite projects to make.  Here in Florida, we have summer for 3/4 of the year, so I always love a simple crocheted top that is cute, comfortable, and breathable in the summer heat.

This raglan-style tee features an easy-to-work eyelet stitch pattern, which makes decorative holes in the fabric.  Those little holes allow air to pass through the fabric, helping to make the tee breathable.

How to Choose the Best Yarn for a Crochet Summer Top

This women’s top crochet pattern calls for #4 Medium / Worsted Weight yarn.  I prefer to use a washable, low-fuzz yarn for summer garment projects.  For the Driftwood Tee, I chose to use Lion Brand ZZ Twist, a smooth, washable, fuzz-free acrylic yarn with lovely drape.

This yarn is spun with a Z-twist, in the opposite direction that most yarns are spun.  It is 100% acrylic, but the yarn is very smooth, slightly silky, and does not have any fuzz, which makes it great for crocheting a summer tee.  If a yarn is fuzzy, the garment made from it will trap body heat.  That’s great for a winter sweater, but not for summer clothes!  For this project, you’ll want to use a yarn that has very little fuzz to it.  (See this blog post for tips on choosing yarns for summer garment projects.)

When selecting the yarn you want to use for this pattern, make sure the yarn label says it is #4 Worsted Weight.  Then, purchase enough skeins of the yarn you want to use so that you have at least the total number of yards required in the pattern for the size you are making.

How do I Choose a Size?

The Driftwood Tee crochet pattern includes instructions for 9 sizes, from a women’s Extra Small to a 5X.  To decide which size you want to make, you’ll need to measure around the fullest part of the bust.  Then, follow the instructions in the “Sizing” section of the pattern to select the size according to the wearer’s bust measurement.

If you’d like to make the tee longer or shorter, you can do so by working more or fewer rounds in the body of the tee.  You can lengthen or shorten the sleeves in the same manner.  But if you plan on adjusting the length, be sure to purchase more yarn than the pattern says you’ll need.  It’s never fun to run out of yarn in the middle of a project!

How to Crochet a Summer Top

There are many ways to crochet clothing.  Some tops are crocheted as flat pieces, then sewn together.  You can also crochet a top in the round.  This is usually done from the top (neckline) down to the hem.  The Driftwood Tee is crocheted raglan-style, from the top down, and then a bit of length is added to the sleeves after the body is finished.

Raglan shaping might sound complex, but it’s really not any more difficult than making a granny square.  We just begin at the neckline, and add stitches at the corners to create a square with a neck-hole in the middle.  Then, the square is folded to divide the sleeve stitches from the body stitches.

This free summer top crochet pattern uses simple construction, with a few special stitches.  If you’re comfortable with simple crochet techniques, and familiar with reading a written pattern and working in the round, you can make this project.  Plus, there’s a full video tutorial for this project, which will walk you through the written instructions and help you follow along.

Ready to get started?  Let’s crochet the Driftwood Tee!

Driftwood Tee Crochet Pattern

by Yay For Yarn

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner

Sizing:

> Sizing follows the Craft Yarn Council’s standards for Women’s sizes.

> This tee has a classic fit, with about 3-5” of positive ease. If you are between sizes, size up if you want a looser-fit tee, or size down if you want a more fitted tee.  Measure the bust of the wearer, and choose the size that is closest to the wearer’s bust measurement, under the title “To Fit Bust”. 

> Length of Tee is adjustable.  

> Instructions and yarn requirements for size X-Small are given outside the parentheses, with Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X given inside the parentheses, like this:  

X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).  

> When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

To Fit Bust:

• X-Small: 30” (76 cm)
• Small: 34” (86 cm)
• Medium: 38” (96.5 cm)
• Large: 42” (107 cm)
• X-Large: 46” (117 cm)
• 2X: 50” (127 cm)
• 3X: 54” (137 cm)
• 4X: 58” (147 cm)
• 5X: 62” (157.5 cm)

Finished Bust / Back Length from Top of Shoulder to Hem:

• X-Small: 32.7” (83 cm) / 20.2” (51 cm)
• Small: 37” (94 cm) / 21.2” (54 cm)
• Medium: 41.4” (105 cm) / 22.3” (57 cm)
• Large: 45.8” (116 cm) / 23.4” (59 cm)
• X-Large: 50” (127 cm) / 24.5” (62 cm)
• 2X: 54.5” (138 cm) / 24.5” (62 cm)
• 3X: 59” (150 cm) / 25.6” (65 cm)
• 4X: 63.2” (161 cm) / 26.7” (68 cm)
• 5X: 67.6” (172 cm) / 27.8” (71 cm)

You Will Need:

• About 649 (772, 900, 1041, 1188, 1292, 1454, 1624, 1801) Yards of #4 Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Lion Brand ZZ Twist in Taupe, 100% Acrylic, 3.5 oz / 100g / 246 yds per skein, 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8) skeins)
• US Size J / 6 mm Crochet Hook
• 1 Locking or Split-Ring Stitch Marker
• Scissors
• Measuring Tape
• Yarn Needle or Blunt Tapestry Needle

Gauge: 11 stitches = 3” (10 cm); 11 rows = 4” (10 cm) in main stitch pattern

Abbreviations:

st(s): stitch(es)

sk: skip

nxt: next

ea: each

sp: space

beg: beginning

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

hdc: half-double crochet

dc: double crochet

*Fsc: foundation single crochet

*CSSC: chainless starting single crochet

*CSHDC: chainless starting half-double crochet

*CSDC: chainless starting double crochet

*invslst: invisible slip stitch

*This is a special stitch.  See instructions below to learn how to work this stitch.

Special Stitches

Foundation Single Crochet: (video tutorial here)

To begin, chain 2. Insert hook into the 2nd chain from the hook. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through one loop on hook (one chain made). Yarn over, pull through both remaining loops on hook.

For all following stitches: Turn work upside-down so the bottom (foundation) edge is facing you. On the bottom of the previous stitch, there is what looks like the top of a normal crochet stitch (the chain from the previous stitch). Insert hook into both strands of that “stitch”. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through one loop on hook (chain made). Yarn over, pull through both remaining loops on hook.

Chainless Starting Single Crochet: (video tutorial here) 

Stretch loop on hook slightly. Insert hook in the specified stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook.

Chainless Starting Half-Double Crochet: (video tutorial here)

Stretch loop on hook until it is slightly longer than a regular half-double crochet. Place a locking stitch marker or safety pin around the stretched loop and hold it against the back of your hook with your finger. Yarn over with the stretched loop on your hook (not the working yarn) 1 time. Insert the hook into the specified stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

*It is best not to remove the stitch marker until you have joined into the top of the CSHDC at the end of the round.

*If you do not want to use the CSHDC, you can replace it with “ch 1, hdc in specified st”.

Chainless Starting Double Crochet: (video tutorial here)

Stretch loop on hook until it is slightly longer than a regular double crochet. Holding the top of the loop still with your finger, yarn over with the stretched loop on your hook (not the working yarn) 1 time. Insert the hook into the specified stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop of yarn. (Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook) 2 times.

Invisible Slip Stitch:  (video tutorial here)

Remove hook from current loop. Insert hook from back to front through the top of the chainless starting stitch from beg of round. Place original loop back on hook. Pull loop through the st from front to back.

Pattern for Gauge Swatch

Row 1: Ch 20.  Sk 1st ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across.  <19 sts, not including skipped ch.>

Row 2: Turn.  CSDC in same st.  Dc in ea remaining st across.  

Row 3: Turn.  CSSC in same st.  Sc in ea remaining st across.

Row 4: Turn.  Ch 1, hdc in same st.  *Ch 1, sk 1, hdc in nxt st*.  Repeat from *to* to end of row.

Row 5: Turn.  CSDC in same st.  Dc in ea st and ch-sp across.  

Repeat Rows 3-5 three more times.  Tie off, block, and measure gauge.  

Driftwood Tee Instructions

How to Crochet the Driftwood Tee

This tee is worked from the top down, beginning at the neckline.  Once the yoke (upper portion of the sweater) is finished, we’ll separate the sleeve stitches from the body stitches and work the body and sleeves of the tee separately.

This pattern begins with a row of foundation single crochet instead of a foundation chain. The foundation single crochet is simple to work, and makes the foundation chain and the first row of single crochet at the same time. The foundation edge, when worked in this way, has much more stretch and flexibility than a regular foundation chain. I highly recommend using the foundation single crochet to begin your panel, but instructions for a regular foundation chain and row of single crochet are also included.

Yoke

Round 1: Ch 2, fsc in 2nd ch from hook.  Work 79 more fsc for a total of 80 sts.  Invslst in top of 1st fsc to join.  <You should have 80 sts, not including beg chs or invslst.>

OR

Round 1: Ch 81.  Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea of nxt 79 chs.  Invslst in top of 1st sc to join.  <You should have 80 sts, not including beg chs or invslst.>

Round 2: Turn.  CSDC in nxt st.  Dc in nxt 9 sts.  (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in nxt st.  *Dc in nxt 19 sts. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in nxt st.*  Repeat from *to* 2 more times.  Dc in nxt 9  sts.  Invslst in top of CSDC from beg of round to join.  <You should have 96 sts, including ch sts, but not including invslst.>

Round 3: Turn.  CSSC in nxt st.  *Sc across to corner ch-sp, (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner ch-sp.*  Repeat from *to* 3 more times.  Sc across remaining sts of round, invslst in top of CSSC from beg of round to join.  <8 sts increased.>

Round 4: Do not turn.  CSHDC in same st.  [*ch 1, sk 1, hdc in nxt st*.  Repeat from *to* until 1 st is left before corner ch-sp.  Ch 1, sk 1, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in corner ch-sp.] four times.  Repeat from *to* until 1 st is left in round.  Ch 1, sk 1, invslst in top of CSHDC from beg of round to join.  Remove marker from top of CSHDC.  <8 sts increased.>

Round 5: Turn.  CSDC in nxt ch-sp.  *Dc in ea st and ch-sp across to corner ch-sp.  (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in corner ch-sp.*  Repeat from *to* 3 more times.  Dc in ea st and ch-sp across to end of round.  Invslst in top of CSDC from beg of round to join.  <16 sts increased.>

Repeat Rounds 3-5; 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) more times.  <You should now have 224 (256, 288, 320, 352, 384, 416, 448, 480) sts.>

Body

We will now divide the sleeve stitches from the body stitches, and finish working the body of the tee.  We will join yarn and work the rest of the sleeves later.

Round 6: Turn.  CSSC in nxt st.  *Sc in ea st across to nxt corner ch-sp.  Sc in corner ch-sp, ch 3.  Sk all sts along nxt side of square, sc in nxt corner ch-sp.  Repeat from *to* once more.  Sc across remaining sts of round, invslst in top of CSSC from beg of round to join.  <You should have 120 (136, 152, 168, 184, 200, 216, 232, 248) sts, including ch sts, but not including invslst.>

Round 7: Do not turn.  CSHDC in same st.  [Ch 1, sk 1, hdc in nxt st] around to last st.  Ch 1, sk 1, invslst in top of CSHDC from beg of round to join.  Remove marker from top of CSHDC.  <You should have 120 (136, 152, 168, 184, 200, 216, 232, 248) sts, including ch sts, but not including invslst.>

Round 8: Turn.  CSDC in nxt ch-sp.  Dc in ea st and ch-sp around.  Invslst in top of CSDC from beg of round to join.  <You should have 120 (136, 152, 168, 184, 200, 216, 232, 248) sts, not including invslst.>

Round 9: Turn.  CSSC in nxt st.  Sc in ea st around.  Invslst in top of CSSC from beg of round to join.  <You should have 120 (136, 152, 168, 184, 200, 216, 232, 248) sts, including ch sts, not including invslst.>

Repeat Rounds 7-9; 10 (10, 10, 10, 10, 9, 9, 9, 9) more times.  (To make the tee longer or shorter, just repeat Rounds 7-9 more / fewer times.)  Tie off, weave in ends.

Sleeves

Join yarn in center ch st at underarm, making sure the back side of the last double crochet round on the armhole edge is facing out.  

Round 1: CSSC in same st.  Sc in nxt ch st, sc in corner ch-sp of yoke.  Sc in ea st across sleeve opening.  Sc in corner ch-sp of yoke, sc in last ch of underarm.  Invslst in top of CSSC from beg of round to join.  <You should have 60 (68, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124) sts, not including invslst.>

Round 2: Do not turn.  CSHDC in nxt st.  [Ch 1, sk 1, hdc in nxt st] around to last st.  Ch 1, sk 1, invslst in top of CSHDC from beg of round to join.  Remove marker from top of CSHDC.  <You should have 60 (68, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124) sts, including ch sts, but not including invslst.>

Round 3: Turn.  CSDC in nxt ch-sp.  Dc in ea st and ch-sp around.  Invslst in top of CSDC from beg of round to join.  <You should have 60 (68, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124) sts, not including invslst.>

Round 4: Turn.  CSSC in nxt st.  Sc in ea st around.  Invslst in top of CSSC from beg of round to join.  <You should have 60 (68, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108, 116, 124) sts, including ch sts, not including invslst.>

Repeat Rounds 2-4 once more.  Tie off, weave in ends.  Repeat instructions for sleeve at other armhole.

To Block: (video tutorial here)

For natural fibers, pin project out on foam blocking mats. Spray with water until fully saturated, allow to dry.

OR

For acrylic fibers, pin project out on an ironing board or several layers of towels. Hold a steaming iron 2-3” over the surface of the fabric, making sure all of the fabric is penetrated by the steam. Allow to cool / dry.

This pattern is intended for your personal use only. You may not share it, copy it, sell it, give it away, or mass-produce the finished product. However, you may sell the finished items on a small scale, as long as you convey in your item description that you used a Yay For Yarn pattern.

Yay For Yarn Copyright© 2020 – Current. All patterns and photos are owned by Yay For Yarn.

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