Even beginners can crochet this quick and easy summer top, made from just two rectangles!
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I love summer crochet projects.
Maybe that’s because I live in Florida, and we have summer here for almost 3/4 of the year. ????⛱☀ (really, we do.) I am always on the lookout for lightweight, breezy projects that I can make and wear when it’s warm out.
Well, this top is perfect for warm weather.
It’s a little lacy, a little breezy, and made in a yarn that is super soft and lightweight. And best of all, it’s made from just two rectangles! If you’ve never crocheted a garment before, this is the perfect place to start!
Easy Summer Tee Crochet Pattern
by Yay for Yarn
Skill Level: Advanced Beginner
Sizing follows the Craft Yarn Council’s standards for Women’s sizes.
Instructions and yarn requirements for size X-Small are given outside the parentheses, with Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X given inside the parentheses, like this:
X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).
When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
To Fit Bust:
Finished Bust Measurement:
To choose the correct size, measure around the fullest part of the wearer’s bust. Choose the size that is the closest to that measurement in the first chart that says “To Fit Bust”. I recommend printing the pattern out and circling or highlighting all numbers that pertain to your size before beginning.
You Will Need:
Approx. 640 (720, 825, 905, 984, 1100, 1185, 1305, 1390) yards of #4 Worsted Weight Yarn. I used Lion Brand ZZ Twist in Coral, 3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins.
US Size I / 5.5 mm Crochet Hook (or size needed to obtain gauge, I used this one)
Yarn Needle or Blunt Tapestry Needle
Gauge: 16 stitches = 4” (10 cm), 10 Rows = 3 5/8” (9.2 cm), in stitch pattern
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
Fsc: foundation single crochet*
CSSC: chainless starting single crochet*
CSDC: chainless starting double crochet*
*This is a special stitch. See instructions below to learn how to work this stitch. (Some of these special stitches are not required and may be substituted if you like, as directed in the pattern.)
Foundation Single Crochet (Fsc, video tutorial):
To begin, chain 2. Insert hook into the 2nd chain from the hook. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Next, yarn over, pull through one loop on hook. Finally, yarn over, pull through both remaining loops on hook.
For all following stitches: Turn work upside-down so the bottom (foundation) edge is facing you. On the bottom of the previous stitch, there is what looks like the top of a normal crochet stitch. Insert hook into both strands of that “stitch”. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Next, yarn over, pull through one loop on hook. Finally, yarn over, pull through both remaining loops on hook.
Chainless Starting Single Crochet (CSSC, video tutorial):
Stretch loop on hook slightly. Insert hook in the same stitch the loop is coming from. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Then, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook.
Chainless Starting Double Crochet (CSDC, video tutorial):
Note: If you do not want to use this stitch in the project, you may replace it with a “ch 3”.
Stretch loop on hook until it is slightly longer than a regular double crochet. Holding the top of the loop still with your finger, yarn over with the stretched loop on your hook (not the working yarn) 1 time. Insert the hook into the same stitch the loop is coming from. Yarn over, pull up a loop of yarn. *Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook* 2 times.
This top is made from 2 rectangles, one for the front, and one for the back.
Easy Summer Tee Instructions
How to Crochet the Easy Summer Tee
- Crochet a rectangle for the front and one for the back
Front / Back Panel (make 2)
For a stretchy edge at the bottom of our tee, I used a row of Foundation Single Crochet instead of a regular foundation chain and row of single crochet to start my panels. The row of Foundation Single Crochet is equal to a regular foundation chain and one row of single crochet. Two options are given below for Row 1 of the panel. If you would like to use the Foundation Single Crochet to start your panel, follow the instructions for the first option. If you would like to start your panel with a regular foundation chain, follow the instructions for the second option.
Row 1 (using foundation single crochet):
Leave 1 yard / 1 meter of a tail before beginning. Ch 2. Fsc in 2nd ch from hook. Work 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128) more Fsc. You should have 65 (73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121, 129) sts, not including beg ch sp.
Row 1 (using a regular foundation chain):
Leave about 1 yard / 1 meter of a tail before beginning. Ch 66 (74, 82, 90, 98, 106, 114, 122, 130). Sk 1st ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across. You should have 65 (73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121, 129) sts, not including skipped chain from beg of row.
Turn. (CSDC, dc) in same st. *sk 1 st, 2 dc in nxt st* across to last 2 sts. Sk 1 st, dc in nxt st. You should have 65 (73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121, 129) sts.
Turn. CSSC in same st. Sc in ea st across. You should have 65 (73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113, 121, 129) sts.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until you have worked a total of 61 (61, 63, 63, 63, 65, 65, 67, 67) rows, including Row 1. The last row you worked should be Row 3.
Tie off, leaving a tail at least 8” / 20.3 cm long.
Repeat instructions to create the second panel. Block both panels to correct finished measurements (see below) using the blocking method of your choice.
(Due to the natural tendency of this stitch pattern, the rectangles may tend to slant a little to one side. As long as you worked your rows correctly, this is not a problem. Blocking can help correct that natural slant.)
Each rectangle should measure 16” (18”, 20”, 22”, 24”, 26”, 28”, 30”, 32”) OR 40.6 cm (45.7 cm, 50.8 cm, 55.9 cm, 61 cm, 66 cm, 71.1 cm, 76.2 cm, 81.3 cm) wide.
Each rectangle should measure 22” (22”, 22 ¾”, 22 ¾”, 22 ¾”, 23 ½”, 23 ½”, 24 ¼”, 24 ¼”) OR 55.9 cm (55.9 cm, 57.8 cm, 57.8 cm, 57.8 cm, 59.7 cm, 59.7 cm, 61.6 cm, 61.6 cm) long from the foundation edge to the top.
- Block your rectangles
To Block (video tutorial):
For natural fibers, pin each rectangle out to the correct measurements on foam blocking mats. Spray with water until fully saturated, allow to dry.
For acrylic fibers, pin each rectangle out to the correct measurements on an ironing board or several layers of towels. Hold a steaming iron 2”-3” over the surface of the fabric, making sure all of the crochet fabric is penetrated by the steam. Allow to cool / dry.
- Seam your rectangles together
Choose which side of the panels you would like to be the “right side”. Either side of the work could be used as the right side (to face outward on the garment).
Lay both panels out in front of you so the foundation edge of each panel is at the bottom and the top edge of each panel is at the top. Lay one panel down with the right side facing down, and lay the other panel on top of it with the right side facing up. The “wrong sides” of the panels should be together. The foundation edges and top edges should also be together.
Make sure that the edges and corners are lined up. You should have a long yarn tail at each bottom corner, and a shorter yarn tail at each top corner.
The dashed lines on the diagram above show each seam. The arrows point the direction the seam is sewn, and the small lines at the arrow tips indicate the end of the seam. As you stitch each seam, try to always keep the rows on one side aligned with the rows on the other side (sc rows should meet, dc rows should meet).
1st Side Seam:
Thread one of the long yarn tails through your yarn needle. Starting at that bottom corner, begin whip stitching the two panels together up one side. Stop when you have 6 ½” (7”, 7 ½”, 8”, 8 ½”, 9”, 9 ½”, 10”, 10 ½”) OR 16.5 cm (17.8 cm, 19 cm, 20.3 cm, 21.6 cm, 22.9 cm, 24.1 cm, 25.4 cm, 26.7 cm) left before you reach the top edge of the panels. (This leaves an opening for the armhole.) Take one more stitch in the same place as the previous stitch, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull the needle through to make a knot. Weave in the yarn tail.
2nd Side Seam:
Thread the other long yarn tail at the other bottom corner through your yarn needle. Repeat the same instructions for the previous seam with that tail on the other side, and weave in the yarn tail.
Thread one of the shorter yarn tails through your yarn needle. Starting at that top corner, begin whip stitching the two panels together across the top edge. Stop when your seam is about 4” (4 ½”, 5”, 5 ½”, 6”, 6 ½”, 7”, 7 ½”, 8”) OR 10 cm (11.4 cm, 12.7 cm, 14 cm, 15.2 cm, 16.5 cm, 17.8 cm, 19 cm, 20.3 cm) long. Take one more stitch in the same place as the previous stitch, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull the needle through to make a knot. Weave in the yarn tail.
Thread the other short yarn tail at the other top corner through your yarn needle. Repeat the same instructions for the previous shoulder seam with that tail on the other side, and weave in the yarn tail.
This pattern is intended for your personal use only. You may not share it, copy it, sell it, give it away, or mass-produce the finished product. However, you may sell the finished items on a small scale, as long as you convey in your item description that you used a Yay For Yarn pattern.
Yay For Yarn Copyright© 2019 – Current. All patterns and photos are owned by Yay For Yarn.
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Have you crocheted a garment yet?
I love this pattern, and its classic look! Your patterns are so easy to follow, and the video tutorials have always answered any question that comes up.
I am a pear shaped gal, and I’m wondering if I you might have a suggestion for adding some shaping to make this pattern fit both my bust and hip; my bust would fit a size XL and my hip a 2XL. I fear making a 2XL would end up fitting my hips but be very sloppy around my bust. While I have been crocheting for almost 10 years, I have no experience in shaping a crochet garment. What would you suggest?
Thank you for your beautiful patterns, and for any help you can offer!
Hi Leah! If you want the top to gradually get a bit smaller towards the top, here’s what you can do. Start at the bottom with the 2XL instructions, and work according to the instructions for a few inches. (I would estimate at least 5-6 inches, but that is up to you.) Then, compare the number of stitches you should have for the 2XL and the XL. However many stitches more there are in the 2XL, that is how many stitches you’ll need to decrease. I would suggest doing a single crochet 2 together near the beginning and end of each single crochet row until you have the correct number of stitches for the XL size. Then, you can continue working straight with the correct number of stitches for the XL. I hope this helps!
I love all your videos. You make the most intricate ideas seem simple and come to life. Thank you for all the time and effort you put in to all you do!
By the way….I live in Tavares, near orlando
Keep up the great work!
Thanks so much, Amy! I’m so glad you are enjoying my tutorials!