Hey there, fellow yarn-lover!
Welcome to Yay For Yarn!
I’m here to get your creative juices flowing, help you improve your yarn-ing skills, and make your projects look even more incredible.
Whether you’re just starting out on your crafting journey or you’ve been yarn-ing for years, knitting and crochet shouldn’t have to be frustrating, confusing, or difficult.
I believe that with clear, simplified instructions and tutorials, anyone can turn a ball of yarn into something beautiful.
The Yay For Yarn Story
I’ve been knitting and crocheting since childhood, learning from family members, library books, videos and pretty much any resources I could get my hands on.
Knitting and crochet were a satisfying creative outlet for me, giving me a way to make cool things from yarn with my own two hands.
But at the same time, I was frustrated.
No matter what I tried, it seemed that all of my projects turned out sloppy and homemade-looking. I couldn’t seem to create anything that looked professional and handmade, and ended up unraveling many project attempts because I couldn’t figure out the instructions.
Some patterns and tutorials I found were helpful, others were unclear and difficult to understand.
After years of practice, learning, and trial-and-error, I finally learned to make neat, professional-looking items and design my own projects, just as I had wanted to do from the beginning.
But I knew there were still others out there, struggling to find high-quality, easy-to-understand patterns and tutorials for beginners.
I dreamed of creating a place where knitters, crocheters, and machine knitters of all skill levels could find simple, step-by-step tips, techniques, and project inspiration.
So in 2014, I started this blog to create clear, well-written tutorials and step-by-step videos for crafters of all skill levels and learning types.
I now have over 150 tutorials and over 75 knitting & crochet patterns, most of which include step-by-step video tutorials.
You can find my free patterns and tutorials below:
It brings me so much joy to hear of my readers’ successes, whether they’ve conquered a technique they previously thought was ‘too hard’, or they finally have the courage to tackle their first garment project.
I hope you will find something you LOVE here at Yay For Yarn, whether it’s a free pattern, a tutorial to help with your project, or an answer to your yarn craft question.
I love being able to share my love of yarn with others every day, and I’m so glad you’ve stopped by!
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There is no free downloadable pdf for the knit hat. If I click to download free pdf knitting pattern, I’m rerouted to a menu and no pattern can be attained. Where is the free pattern?
Hi Michelle. The free version of the pattern is available to view in this blog post. However, the free version of the pattern is not available to download. The downloadable, PDF printable version of the pattern is available for purchase in my shop here. I hope this helps!
Hi Yay For Yarn! I was wondering if you have a tutorial for continental purling that doesn’t use your thumb? I have been knitting continental for about 15 years now, self taught. But, purling is always difficult. I have resorted to combined continental, which I love. But, having the knit stitches twisted on the next row can sometimes be a real pain if/when you have more complicated stitches to do. Any help/advice would be wonderful.
Hi Kim. The purling method I teach in my free cheat sheet and video tutorial was chosen because I felt it was easiest for someone used to holding the yarn in the right hand to switch over to. However, the technique that I personally use in my knitting is my Ergonomic Speed Knitting Method. It is not a combined knitting style and does not use the thumb to purl. Instead of using individual fingers to make the stitches, this technique keeps the hands and wrists mostly still while using a gentle sliding motion of the forearm to form the stitches. With most methods, it is rather difficult to purl without using finger motions, but adjusting the angle of the hands makes it possible with this technique. In fact, the motions for purling are the same as the motions for knitting, just reversed. This makes it just as fast to purl as it is to knit once you become comfortable and proficient with the technique. You can learn more about my Ergonomic Speed Knitting Method here. I hope this helps!
Portuguese knitting is the easiest most smooth purl I know.
Hi Yay for Yarn!
I have downloaded and started knitting your pattern for hat using just a rectangle. LOVE it….I have a question I was going you could help with….
I have a super bulky Japanese hand spun yarn I’d like to use…..I started a swatch gauge using the suggested needle size and quickly realized it was necessary to increase my needle size….15 is perfect for this yarn. Do you have a suggestion for how many stitches to cast on? Thank you for tolerating the questions of this beginner 🙂
Hi Laura! If you would like to use larger needles, you can do that, but it will change your gauge. Because your stitches will be a different size than the stitches in the pattern instructions, you’ll want to just knit a rectangle to match the finished dimensions given in the pattern for the size you are making. I would suggest making a small square, about 5″ by 5″, and measuring your gauge. Then, it will be much easier to decide how many stitches you’ll need to get the correct width for the rectangle. Keep in mind that the finished rectangle will be turned sideways in the hat, so the width of the cast on edge is actually the height of the finished hat (including the brim). I hope this helps!
Hi there
Could you please show me how do you attach that leather tag to your finished hat please?
thank you for a reply in advance
Fernando
Hi. I do have a tutorial that shows how I like to attach the leather tags. It’s near the end of this video. I hope this helps!
I love your tutorial and pattern for making the triangle hat. I’ve completed two Adult larges and now I’m working on an adult medium with bulky weight US 10 needles. The pattern calls for 42 cast on stitches. It looks way too short and I was wondering if that was correct or if it would mess things up if I added another 10 stitches? I would follow the rest of the pattern but it really looks like it needs to be taller than 42 stitches.
Thanks for your help.
Hi Elizabeth. If your gauge is correct according to the pattern, then I would suggest following the numbers in the pattern. If all you have done so far is the cast on, that may not give an accurate representation of the final width of the panel / height of the hat. (Sometimes the cast on does not appear as wide as the panel will be with that number of stitches.) Try working about 1″ of rows first, and then measure the width of your piece to see if it matches the pattern dimensions. I hope this helps!
Hi there yay for yarn! I have recently taken a stab at knitting using both a circular loom to make a few hats and I have acquired an Addie Express king size knitting machine. I am trying a few of the patterns in the book that it came with but when in plain knitting mode I am having an issue dropping stitches on the edges. I think my main issue is I’m going a little too fast and when I slow down I don’t seem to drop stitches so often but I’m not finding any good tutorials or guides on how to pick up drop stitches on the edge. All guides I’ve seen have been in circle mode or in the middle of a panel. Do you have any tips or videos for a newbie you could recommend on fixing dropped edge stiches in plain knitting mode, especially when you don’t notice them until you’re a good several rows past the dropped stitch, or some good general tips to avoid dropping the edges in the first place?
Hi Trevor. If you tend to drop stitches on the edge, here’s the best thing you can do to avoid that. When the machine comes to the last needle of your row, make sure you turn it far enough that the last needle grabs the yarn and pulls it all the way down into the machine. It should pull the yarn down past the red tab in between the last needle you are working with and the next empty needle. Then, when you turn the work, slowly work across that first needle and watch to make sure it grabs the yarn. Giving a little tug on the yarn as the first needle grabs the yarn can help make sure it grabs securely and pulls it all the way down into the machine. As for fixing a dropped edge stitch, you can’t really fix it if you have dropped the stitch and not noticed until several rows later. With a dropped stitch in the middle of a row or round, the yarn is stretched across that space, so you can pick up the stitch. This is not the case with an edge stitch, so ideally, you’ll want to avoid dropping stitches on the edge. I hope this helps!
I am working on the Simple Slouchy Sweater and absolutely love the pattern. It has a simple elegance to it.
I have a suggestion for a slight change to the pattern. On the sleeves you do the kf&b in second stitch and second last stitch of the increase rows. Might I suggest K1, Kf&b, Knit across to 3rd last stitch, kf&b in next stitch, k2. When done this way the purl bump is in the 3rd position on each end. It is a small thing but makes the pattern of the increases going either side of the seam evenly spaced from the seam.
Stay healthy, stay safe.
Warmly, D
Hi,
Do you or anyone you know have a hank or 2 of knitologie glowing worsted colorway flying trapeze that I might buy from you. I started a shawl for my mother in law for a Christmas gift and will run out before it is done. Knit crate is out of stock. 🙁
Hi Debbie. I don’t have any in that colorway, but there are places where you may be able to find it if you need some. KnitCrate has their own de-stash site, where people can swap or sell their extra yarn. It’s called Destashio, and you can search for whatever yarn you’re looking for to see if anyone has it. You can also post an “In search of” listing to let others know you are looking for a particular yarn. Some people on Ravelry who log their yarn stash will mark their yarn as “willing to trade or sell”. There are a couple of people there that have this yarn and have marked it as willing to trade or sell. You can message the owner of the yarn to inquire about purchasing or trading for the skeins you would like from their stash. I hope this helps!
I made the slouchy sweater and wondered if I could add inches to make it longer when finished?
Hi Freyda. Are you wanting to add length to the hem of the already finished cardigan? If so, I think the most invisible way to add length would be to cast on and knit a new piece of ribbing with the same number of cast on stitches as the sweater. Then, you could graft the top row of the new piece onto the hem of the cardigan ribbing. This would add length to the ribbing, making the cardigan longer. If you are still making the body of the sweater, you can add length to the stockinette stitch portion by continuing to knit the lower portion longer than what the pattern says before beginning the upper sections. I hope this helps!
I purchased your pattern for the Rustic Tartan Throw and Brava Bulky Weight yarn to make it. I chose Dublin for the main color and Brindle for the contrasting color. I would have preferred either a wheat or even a grey for the CC but neither of these colors are available for months. Now that I have it to see it in person, I think it will be too dark using the Dublin and Brindle so I want to add a lighter color like a darker cream or wheat. Can you suggest another brand that is similar weight and texture that will blend in with the Brava? I found you by comparing Brava to LB Color Made Easy so thought that it might be a good substitute. Thank you in advance for your help!
Hi Barb! I don’t have a pattern for a Rustic Tartan Throw, but I think Color Made Easy would be a good substitute for Brava Bulky. I hope this helps!
I noticed you were looking for someone who can create wooden crochet hooks cheaper than Furls. I love this vendor on Etsy.
The name of the shop is Letto Workshop. They do custom wood crochet hooks and even handles with metal hooks. They have the BEST customer service! I have bought hooks from them and they are phenomenal to work with. They are in the Ukraine and ship worldwide. They are currently working like busy bees because of COVID. They do stunning work.
Hi I do a lot of knitting for charity and decided that to be a bit quicker I needed a circular machine, so have just ordered a Addi 46 needle machine. Since then I have been watching a lot of your videos and they are excellent – clearly explained and very helpful.
I would like to be able to make childrens pullovers age 2-5. I have watched your videos on increasing and decreasing, rib borders etc.
My question is do you have a pattern or recipe as some call it or video for making these please?
Hi! Yes, I do have a recipe for a pullover sweater in any size on the Addi King here. I hope this helps!
I purchased your simple slouchy sweater and would like to make it again. I marked on the copy I had and would like to print me out another working copy but I don’t know where it is on my computer. Do you know where they go after printing? Thanks, Susie
Hi Susie! If you downloaded the PDF version of the pattern to your computer, I would suggest checking your downloads folder. If you don’t see it, try searching your files for “Yay For Yarn”, and it should pull it up for you. You can then open the file in a PDF reader app, and print the pattern again. I hope this helps!
hi. I just discovered your website by watching your crochet C2C Moss Stitch dishcloth. I am an advanced crocheter and had trouble with this pattern keeping the decreased side edges straight. What is your secret? Mine looks like a cone on the decreased side. Though it will be useful for cleaning bottles and glasses! Also, I am looking for a marketable dishcloth pattern, that doesn’t take forever to make. I am going to make your the Seafoam Cardigan pattern next. I am a craft vendor during the holiday season. Thanks.
Hi Janet! Sorry I did not see your comment until now. If the decrease side of the dishcloth is not appearing the same shape as the increase side, it may be that you’re skipping more stitches at the beginning and end of the row than the pattern calls for. That might cause the decrease side to be more cone-shaped than square. Do your stitch counts and row counts match the pattern instructions? Feel free to email me a photo if you would like. You can send it to blogger[at]yayforyarn.com. I am happy to help!
Hello, I love your Kimono Cardigan and since I cannot for the life of me find the ZZ Twist in Canada or even to buy online, I was wondering if it would work as well in the Lion Brand Jeans yarn? or would it be to stretchy? Would love your informed opinion. Thank you so much. Really enjoy your tutorials.
Hi! If you can find the Jeans yarn, that would work for this pattern, since it is not very fuzzy and is the same weight category. I hope this helps!
Hi,
I really enjoy your website and my 11 year old daughter is starting to knit similar to how you learned.
My daughter began making little projects for her dolls and stuffed animals and some of these have become popular and in demand among her friends and cousins. We came up with the idea of using these to raise money for our local children’s hospital.
With demand comes the need to knit more efficiently and we are starting to look into knitting machines. We both enjoyed your YouTube on how to make a flat panel on the Addi express 22 needle knitting machine. My main question is can this machine accommodate a panel with a smaller number of stitches – for example if we wanted to make a panel that was 10 stitches by 15 rows would that be possible on the Addi machine? I thank you in advance for your comment and any advice you might have.
We appreciate your work. Thank you.
Hi Lee! I’m glad you are enjoying my videos so far. Yes, you can make narrower panels on the machine, you just use fewer needles. There are external stoppers that you can put on the machine to keep you from going past the width you are trying to make as you crank the handle. I hope this helps!
Hello Ms. Yay for Yarn:
I enjoy your YouTube videos and I particularly appreciate your product reviews. I think your reviews are very thorough and well-organized. With that being said, I was wondering if you would like to plan another product review video? I was looking at metal/aluminum material interchangeable needle sets and two candidates seem comparable: Knitter’s Pride Zing set and Knit Picks’ Prism Aluminum set (this might be a new product line?). I have been looking for reviews on Knit Picks’ Prism Aluminum needle set to no avail so far, unfortunately. And you, out of all YouTube knitting experts I refer to, came to mind. ^^ I know that you have done quite a few of Knit Picks needle products and I thought to bring this to your attention. Have you used Knitter’s Pride Zing set by any chance (and KP’s Prism set as well)? I have no doubt in my mind that your review will be of best help! Hope you stay safe and healthy! Thanks so much~! Happy knitting/crocheting~. Very Warmly.
Hi Samantha! I’m glad to hear that you are enjoying my videos so far. I have not tried either of those needles, as aluminum is not my personal preference, but if I ever do have the opportunity to try them, I will do a review and let you know what I think about them. Thanks for the suggestion!
I appreciate your prompt response! Your comment already helps (re aluminum material). ^^ I must say your stitch tutorials are exceptionally helpful, I learned so much from you, e.g., invisible chain technique, continental knitting technique, the list can go on and on, haha. Thank you so much again for sharing all your expertise, know-how, insight and so forth. Your presentations and narrations are very clear and easy to understand and follow, and further, your voice and tones are very pleasant to ears . Keep up the great work! All the best, Samantha
Thank you for your kind words!
Hello
I am sending our free craft parcels of knitting needles and wool to local primary school children and need a pattern that they can use as first time primary school knitters – that produces an item from at most one ball of wool. Are you able to help at all please? many thanks KJ
Hi Kay! If you are looking for a super-basic pattern, my Easiest Knitted Hat might work well for that. It’s made from one garter stitch rectangle, and can be done on straight needles. The pattern includes instructions for 6 different yarn weights (thicknesses) and 10 sizes, so depending on the size the children make and what thickness of yarn is used, you can get some of the hats made from a single skein of yarn. It also has a full video tutorial that shows the whole process visually. If I were to teach a beginner to knit, that’s the pattern I would use as a first project. I hope this helps!
I’ve just downloaded your Slouchy Sweater pattern and have a question about gauge. (This is my first attempt at something designed for a wearer!) I did the gauge swatch and it’s not right. Using a #9 circular needle, I cast on 19 stitches and then knitted stockinette for 19 rows. The width of 19 sts is right on at 4″, but the length is also 4″ instead of 3″ per your pattern. What should I have done next?
BTW, I used #9 needles because I haven’t got #8. And also, I forgot to tell you that I’m using Bernat Baby Sport, #3. That prolly means 3-ply, right? Thank you so much!
Hi Suzanne! Part of the reason your gauge swatch isn’t coming out right is probably because you’re using a #3 Light yarn instead of a #4 Medium / Worsted weight yarn as the pattern calls for. (#3 is not necessarily 3-ply, more info on the yarn weight system here.) When you use a yarn that is a different thickness than what the pattern calls for, it will throw off your gauge, even if you use the same size needle that the pattern calls for. If you really want to use that yarn, you could try it, but the sweater may not come out the correct size. Ideally, you would want to use a #4 Medium / Worsted Weight yarn, as that is what the pattern calls for. If you use a #3 yarn, at the gauge you mentioned, you would need to adjust / shorten the number of rows for some parts of the sweater, since your row gauge is longer than the pattern calls for. I hope this helps!
Thanks for this reply, it is very clear. The only worsted weight I have on hand is Red Heart’s Supersaver, though, and I’d hoped to use something a bit softer. Our county just went into the “green” phase in dealing with Covid-19, so I plan to head over to JoAnn Fabrics and browse the various yarns. It’ll be so nice to be able to Shop again! BTW, you have a very nice website here — informative, friendly, and well-organized. Thanks again for the help.
You’re welcome, Suzanne! I hope your sweater turns out great!
Hi,
Thank you so much for your summer sun hat tutorial. I find it very clear and easy to follow. I’m crocheting three sunhats for my kids and would like to know if you’d have a pattern/advise on how to add a strap to make sure that the hats stay on? I was thinking of adding two straps on the inside of the hat and then tying them up with a lace/knot, but I don’t know how to do it… lol.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide! 🙂
Hi Laura! Yes, you could add straps to the hat if you like. If I were to add straps, I would probably use the foundation single crochet or foundation half-double crochet stitch. These stitches create the equivalent of a foundation chain and the first row of stitches at the same time, but the edge has much more stretch. I think that would make the strap more comfortable. You can find my tutorial on foundation stitches here. I hope this helps!
I am getting ready to start the slouchy sweater. My swatch measures 4 x (3 1/2 almost). Will I be ok or do I need to change something?
Hi Susan. The gauge for the Simple Slouchy Sweater is 19 stitches = 4” and 19 rows = 3” (7.6 cm) in stockinette stitch. So once your swatch is blocked, 19 stitches should measure 4″ across, and 19 rows should measure 3″ long. If you are getting the correct gauge with the needle size you are using, you can use those needles to make the sweater. If not, you can change the needle size you are using and check your gauge again. Here’s a post on gauge for more information on measuring gauge and choosing the right needle size. I hope this helps!
It does help, thank you much!
hi
I would like to knit your shawl color blue sweater but do not want to do all the seaming – could you help me do sleeves on round needles and then set in or pick up skts around opening and continue down sleeve on round needles any help would be appreciated. Please respond to my e-mail – thanks
Hi! If you want to knit the sleeves on the Simple Slouchy Sweater from the top down, here’s what you’ll need to do. Examine the pattern instructions for the sleeve for the size you are making. You will basically be working the sleeve instructions backwards. Once you’ve finished knitting the body of the sweater, stitch the shoulder seams. Then, with your circular needles, pick up the number of stitches that the sleeve ends with in the size you are making. Then, work the number of straight rows called for at the end of the sleeve. The next section is the shaping section. In the original pattern, the stitches are increased, because it is worked from the bottom up. If you’re doing it from the top down, you’ll need to replace the increases in that section with decreases. Work through those decreases until you have the same number of stitches that the pattern calls for in the ribbing for the size that you are making. Then, you can work the ribbing and bind off. Always remember that since you are working in the round, you will replace rows that tell you to purl across with a plain knit round. I hope this helps!
Brioche Slouchy Hat: Hi Yay For Yarns,
I want to knit your Brioche Slouchy Hat. The yarn you have knitted it with Hobby Lobby I Love This Wool is not available where I am from, I am from the UK. Would Lion Brand New Basic 175, be a good substitute for it? If not, could you please tell me what yarns would be? I buy by yarns from Lovecrafts, it’s UK website. Could you possibly take a look at that and tell me what yarns would be suitable on it, to knit the hat with?
I look forward to receiving your reply.
Tracey Monica McIntyre
Hi Tracey. You can substitute any #4 Medium / Worsted Weight yarn for this pattern. Lion Brand’s Basic 175 is #4 Worsted, so that is a good substitute. I hope this helps!
Hi Brianna,
I am an avid crocheter and also do some loom knitting. I recently purchased an Addi Express King. I have watched many of your videos. I would like to try a 5-6 ft. long flat scarf (not a tube). I plan to use the technique you recommend in your video “How to stop a flat panel from curling.” Do you recommend using this technique all the way down the sides 5-6 feet or do you have a better idea?
Inga
Hi Inga! With a good blocking, the no-curl flat panel method could work well for a flat scarf. If you plan to make it rather long, you could either rib the side stitches as you go, every couple of inches, or you could rib the side stitch columns after the whole panel is finished and removed from the machine. I hope this helps!
I love the crochet hook handles you made. Do you sell them?
Hi Cat! I currently do not sell the polymer clay crochet hooks, but there are several Etsy shops that make them. Many of those shops will do custom orders if there is a particular shape or style of handle you would like. I hope this helps!
i bought the crochet pattern of the super slipper socks but where is my download
Hi Miranda. Thanks for contacting me. I do have a record of an order under your name on January 5th. However, it says that your order did not go through. The order was not completed, and you were not charged for the pattern.
My shop does not process the VAT or GST (AUS) taxes on digital items. Therefore, I legally cannot sell to countries that charge those taxes on my site. Because you are located in the Netherlands, my system did not allow the order to be placed, so did not charge you or send you a download email. However, you can purchase my patterns via LoveCrafts from any country, as their system takes care of the VAT and GST taxes.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any questions or need pattern support. I am happy to help!
Brianna
Yay For Yarn
I purchased your Slouchy Sweater pattern. I have a receipt from Paypal, but so far, no pattern. I thought it would automatically be sent to my email. I even checked my spam folder. Please send it so I can print it out and follow along with your video tutorial. I’ve knit 3 identical sweaters for relatives this year, but I did not want the same sweater for myself. I really like your pattern, I have never seen another one quite like it.
One question, can buttonholes be included in this sweater?
Narda Mock
Hi! The pattern download link should automatically be sent to your email. I went ahead and had my system resend you the order email (the one with the download link). The subject line will say “Order (order number goes here) from Yay For Yarn Pattern Shop”. If you don’t receive that email, please check your junk / spam folders again just in case the new email went to spam or junk. If that still doesn’t work, please let me know and I will make sure you get the pattern.
As for the buttonholes, I would not recommend adding buttonholes. This sweater is designed with a collar / front edge that is extra-wide and meant to be folded back, so buttonholes would either have to make the sweater fronts overlap quite a bit, or else they would not fasten well because they would have to be on the fold line instead of near the edge. My sweater seems to stay almost closed most of the time when I am wearing it, and the extra-wide ribbings on the fronts can be unfolded and overlapped to keep out the chill if it is really cold.
I hope this helps, and thanks for purchasing the PDF version of the pattern!
I checked my inbox and spam folder and still no pattern. Maybe I entered my email address incorrectly.
Ok, yes, the email address was entered incorrectly from the one you just sent me. I corrected that in your order and resent the emails. It should go through this time. Please let me know if you get the pattern!
I am starting to knit again after 30+ years and have inherited some beautiful teal coloured pure wool in 8ply from my aging mum. I would love a simple pattern in a large size to get me started again. I love the Simple Slouchy Sweater but it needs 10ply. Do you have something similar i could use this wool for. I am a 3xl size generally.
Hi Dorothy! I don’t have any sweater patterns in 8 ply / DK yarn, but I would like to design more sweaters in different yarn weights. It will probably be awhile before I have time to design a DK weight sweater, but I do plan on eventually doing that. If you are subscribed to my email list or YouTube channel, you’ll get a notification each time I release a new pattern or tutorial. Happy Yarning!
Hello! I have watched all of your knitting videos and would LOVE to see more knitting tutorials of yours. I have literally watched at least a hundred videos from different youtube channels that offer to teach knitting. However, I found that you and only one other channel are easy to understand and follow. As a retired teacher, I can honestly say that your teaching style is the best I have found to date. Please make more knitting videos! Your patterns that I have purchased are very easy to follow with many helpful pictures and diagrams, but your videos are priceless. So, I am requesting a knitting tutorial for a beginner oversized sweater which would make my world a very happy place! : ) Thank you so much for all of your hard work in making these videos!
Thanks so much for your kind words, Tess! I’m so glad you are enjoying my videos and patterns. I will keep your suggestion in mind for future projects!
Hi! I want to make your slouchy sweater. I have long arms and am wondering if you know the length of the arms per the pattern? If I wanted to lengthen them would I just make the ribbed section longer? Thanks for your help. This will be my first garment!!
Hi Colleen! Yes, I can give you the length of the arms. Since it is a drop shoulder style, some of the width of the sweater comes over the shoulder, accounting for some of the arm length. So here are the measurements in inches from center back of neck to wrist: 26 (27, 28, 29, 29, 30, 30, 31, 32). These are in accordance with the Craft Yarn Council’s standard sizing for knit and crochet patterns. I hope this helps!
I can’t download the pattern and I m not understanding ,the later part of you rules. pleasehelp.
Hi! Which pattern are you trying to download? Many of my patterns are available for free here on my blog, but are not downloadable or printable. I also offer PDF versions of my patterns, a few of which are free, but most of which are available for purchase. If you can let me know which pattern you are having trouble with, I would be happy to help!
As for the rules, are you referring to the pattern copyright statements? The latter part of the copyright statement is just to say that you are welcome to sell the items you make using the pattern, as long as it is a small business and not a large-scale manufacturing situation. If you sell the items made from my patterns online, I would appreciate a link to the original pattern in the item description.
I hope this helps!
The Invisible Slip Stitch & Chainless Starting Stitch. Please can you tell me how would I would do a single crochet chainless starting stitch on the foundation chain
Hi Gillian! If you want to use the chainless starting single crochet on the foundation chain, there are two ways to do it. If you are working in the round, then you’ll just slip stitch into the first chain stitch to join in the round, and work the chainless starting single crochet in the first chain of the round. If you are working back and forth in rows, then you’ll chain as many stitches as you want the finished first row to have, plus one extra chain stitch. Pull that last chain stitch tight so it almost disappears, and then work your chainless starting single crochet in the next chain. Hope this helps!
Hi there!!
I finally finished my sleeves. I don’t own an iron right now, are there any other ways of blocking, and, do I have to block the sweater?
Your help is much appreciated.
Best,
Gina ????
Hi Gina! Blocking is recommended, but not absolutely required. It helps improve the even-ness and drape of the fabric. If you don’t have an iron, a garment steamer will also work for steam blocking. Or (especially if you’re using natural fibers), you can spray block it. To do that, you’ll pin the pieces out on a foam blocking mat (foam exercise mats will also work, or a thick towel. Then, spray with water until the whole thing is damp, and let dry. Hope this helps!
Hi I love to crochet, but I want to knit also. I printed out the pattern convertible shaw. I just keep messing up. Sometimes I can’t distinguish between 1 and 2 stitches. If I make a mistake I can’t fix it. I don’t know what to do.
Hi Robin. I’m sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your knitting. I think this is a common problem for new knitters, but it is something you can overcome. It has to do with learning how knitting works and learning how to “read” your knitting. I plan on doing an in-depth post on that soon. Try using the thickest yarn you have with the largest needles you have and knitting some sample swatches. As you knit, work slowly and watch how the stitches are formed.
Knitting begins with a row of loops, and the next row is made by pulling a new loop through each of the existing loops from the previous row. What makes the difference between a knit and a purl stitch is which direction you pull the new loop through. When the loop is pulled through from back to front, a knit stitch is made. When the loop is pulled through from front to back, a purl stitch is made. Notice how the knit stitch shows up as a v-shape sitting right under your needle, while a purl stitch shows up as a horizontal “bump” sitting under your needle. When you turn it over, what appears as a knit stitch on the right side appears as a purl stitch on the wrong side, and vice-versa. So when you work a right-side row, most of the stitches are knit stitches, and the purl stitches create the little bumps that make the diamond pattern. When you are working a wrong-side row, most of the stitches are purl stitches, which appear as knit stitches on the right side. So the knit stitches in a wrong-side row create purl bumps on the right side, which also help to make the diamond pattern. The 4 knit stitches at each end of every row create the garter stitch edging.
If you don’t feel comfortable with this pattern yet, you might try knitting a few small projects that involve combinations of knit and purl stitches. This may help you to become more comfortable combining knit and purl stitches in the same row and make the shawl pattern a bit easier for you. I would suggest a few simple knit/purl dishcloths like this one, this one, or this one. Using a smooth, solid color yarn will also help you be able to see the stitches more clearly.
I hope this helps! I do plan on doing a video and a post on this soon, so be sure to subscribe to my email list so you’ll know when that post is published. Thanks!
Hi, I sent you a message earlier about making a sweater for my cousin. I’m not good at figuring
out measurements and how too apply them to projects. She was kind enough to measure one of her favorite sweaters that she wears all the time. which from the top of her shoulder to where she wants the sweater to end at 33″, so I wasn’t sure if I needed to double that. I tried to do the X-large and went to 190 chains but it still looks too short, she’s 5’9 I’m not sure how to adjust it for the specific length she’s asking for. can you help? please!!!!
Hi Gina. Yes, you would need to double the 33” if you want to lengthen the sweater, so you’d need the first row of foundation half-double crochet to be 66” long. However, because it is worked sideways, that would also change the numbers and stitch counts for the rest of the body of the sweater. So as long as you are comfortable altering the stitch counts for the rest of the body of the sweater, that alteration can be done. Just take note of how many stitches you started with, as you will need to base your other numbers off of that number. When you work row 3, you’ll need to stop working across the previous row when your row 3 is about 31”-32” long. Rows 4-5 should have the same stitch count as row 3. Then, when you work row 6, you’ll need to work those foundation hdcs until you have the same stitch count for row 6 as you did on your first row. All remaining rows in the body of the sweater should have the same stitch count as row 6. Hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any more questions!
Hello! You sound like a very young person. I admire the way you teach. I am so eager to learn Brioche stitch. I love the way it looks; I watched so many videos, tutorials…. For some reason, I get confused at one point and gave up…… A voice inside me says, “if they can do it, you can do it too. You just have to be patient and pay close attention to details… If you repeat it over and over, you will know how to knit Brioche with two colors”
Well, I watched this video of yours:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ECUFzb0VSk
It sounds easier to me. I am 68 years old but learning new ways has no age limit. I feel like, with your help, I will be able to knit Brioche scarf.
I was born in Turkey, over the years, I ended up living in Arizona. Warm greetings from Arizona.
Have a wonderful day, beautiful young person. (I don’t know your name.)