This soft, slouchy cardigan is a fall wardrobe essential! Crochet your own with this size-inclusive free crochet cardigan pattern.
Table of Contents
This sweater is my new favorite piece for fall. With its over-sized fit, drop shoulder style, and hip length hem, this cardi makes me feel like I’m wrapped up in a snuggly blanket. If you can crochet a simple rectangle with a few modifications, you can make this easy crochet cardigan pattern!
Instead of making a front panel, back panel, and two sleeves, this beginner-friendly pattern is made in 3 pieces. There is one large piece that makes up the entire body of the sweater, and one piece for each sleeve. Then, we work a collar edging around the neckline and fronts of the cardigan to finish it off. The ribbing at the cuffs and hem is made with an easy half-double crochet trick, so there’s no need for front post and back post double crochet stitches.
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The Lion Brand Heartland yarn I used is just perfect for garments like this – soft and drapey, but machine washable. I love how the “Great Sand Dunes” colorway has a touch of heathered ivory in it, which adds a bit of extra depth and texture to the fabric.
Psst: I also have a free pattern for a child-sized version of this cardigan.
Check out more size-inclusive women’s free crochet sweater patterns!
1. Cuddle Cardigan / 2. Diamond Cardigan / 3. Crimson Cardigan
Ready to make your own Comfy Cozy Cardigan? Let’s get started!
Comfy Cozy Cardigan Crochet Pattern
by Yay For Yarn
Project Level: Basic
Sizing:
– Sizing follows the Craft Yarn Council’s standards for Women’s sizes.
– This sweater fits oversized, with 4” of positive ease. If you are between sizes, size up if you want a slouchy-fit sweater, or size down if you want a more fitted sweater.
– Instructions and yarn requirements for size X-Small are given outside the parentheses, with Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X given inside the parentheses, like this:
X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).
When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
To Fit Bust:
30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62)” / 76 (86, 96.5, 106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147, 157.5) cm
Finished Bust:
34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66)” / 86 (96, 107, 117, 127, 137, 147, 158, 168) cm
Back Length:
24 (24, 24.5, 24.5, 25, 25, 25, 25.5, 25.5)” / 61 (61, 62, 62, 64, 64, 64, 65, 65) cm
Please Note: Cardigan length will fall differently on individuals of different heights. Sample cardigan is shown on a petite model. To see how long the cardigan will fall, measure the back length measurement against the wearer.
You Will Need:
Approx. 1200 (1320, 1475, 1580, 1740, 1850, 1960, 2090, 2190) yards #4 Worsted Weight yarn
US Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Scissors
Measuring Tape
Yarn Needle or Blunt Tapestry Needle
2 Stitch Markers or Safety Pins
Shop Supplies for this Project
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Lion Brand Heartland Yarn – LionBrand.com
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Lion Brand Heartland Yarn – JoAnn.com
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Lion Brand Heartland Yarn – Amazon
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WeCrochet Locking Stitch Markers
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Chibi Metal Yarn Needles – Amazon
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Knitter’s Pride Rainbow Folding Scissors
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Gauge: 11 stitches = 3” (7.6 cm), 5 rows = 2” (5 cm) in half-double crochet
Abbreviations:
beg: beginning
ea: each
nxt: next
st(s): stitch(es)
sp: space
sk: skip
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
hdc: half-double crochet
*Fhdc: foundation half-double crochet
*Rhdc: ribbing half-double crochet
*Dc3tog: double crochet 3 stitches together
*This is a special stitch. See instructions below to learn how to work this stitch.
Special Stitches
Foundation Half-Double Crochet
To begin, chain 2. Yarn over, insert hook into the 2nd chain from the hook. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through one loop on hook. Yarn over, pull through all 3 remaining loops on hook.
For all following stitches: Turn work upside-down so the bottom (foundation) edge is facing you. On the bottom of the previous stitch, there is what looks like the top of a normal crochet stitch. Yarn over and insert hook into both strands of that “stitch”. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through one loop on hook. Yarn over, pull through all 3 remaining loops on hook.
Ribbing Half-Double Crochet
Yarn over, insert hook, not into the top of the hdc below, but into the horizontal strand that runs across the front of the hdc below. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Double Crochet 3 Together
*Yarn over, insert hook into nxt st. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over pull through 2 loops.* Repeat between *and* 2 more times. Yarn over, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
Comfy Cozy Cardigan Instructions
Notes: This cardigan is worked sideways, back and forth in rows. The body of the sweater is worked in one long piece. Then the panel is rotated 90 degrees, and the two long strips extending off of the panel are folded down to create the left and right front of the cardigan. Sleeves are also worked sideways.
This pattern begins with a row of foundation half-double crochet instead of a foundation chain. The foundation half-double crochet is simple to work, and makes the foundation chain and the first row of half-double crochet at the same time. The foundation edge, when worked in this way, has much more stretch and flexibility than a regular foundation chain. I highly recommend using the foundation half-double crochet to begin your panel, but instructions for a regular foundation chain and row of half-double crochet are also included.
Body of Sweater:
Row 1: Ch 2, sk 1 ch, Fhdc in 2nd ch from hook. Work 177 (177, 181, 181, 185, 185, 185, 189, 189) more Fhdc. You should have 178 (178, 182, 182, 186, 186, 186, 190, 190) sts, not including beg ch-sp.
OR
Row 1: Ch 180 (180, 184, 184, 188, 188, 188, 192, 192). Sk first 2 chs, hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Hdc in nxt 177 (177, 181, 181, 185, 185, 185, 189, 189) sts. You should have 178 (178, 182, 182, 186, 186, 186, 190, 190) sts, not including skipped chs from beg of row.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. (The ch 2 does not count as a stitch here and throughout.) Rhdc in same st and in ea of nxt 11 sts. Hdc in ea of nxt 154 (154, 158, 158, 162, 162, 162, 166, 166) sts. Rhdc in ea of nxt 12 sts. You should have 178 (178, 182, 182, 186, 186, 186, 190, 190) sts, not including beg ch-sp.
Repeat Row 2: 12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28) more times.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Rhdc in same st and in nxt 11 sts. Hdc in ea of nxt 68 (68, 70, 70, 72, 72, 72, 74, 74) sts. STOP. Do not continue working across previous row. You should have 80 (80, 82, 82, 84, 84, 84, 86, 86) sts, not including beg ch-sp.
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in same st and in ea of nxt 67 (67, 69, 69, 71, 71, 71, 73, 73) sts. Rhdc in ea of nxt 12 sts. You should have 80 (80, 82, 82, 84, 84, 84, 86, 86) sts, not including beg ch-sp.
Row 5: Ch 2, turn. Rhdc in same st and in ea of nxt 11 sts. Hdc in ea of nxt 68 (68, 70, 70, 72, 72, 72, 74, 74) sts. You should have 80 (80, 82, 82, 84, 84, 84, 86, 86) sts, not including beg ch-sp.
Repeat Rows 4-5: 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) more times. Repeat Row 4 once more.
Row 6: Ch 2, turn. Rhdc in same st and in ea of nxt 11 sts. Hdc in ea of nxt 68 (68, 70, 70, 72, 72, 72, 74, 74) sts. Fhdc in base of same st, then work 97 (97, 99, 99, 101, 101, 101, 103, 103) more Fhdc. You should have 178 (178, 182, 182, 186, 186, 186, 190, 190) sts, not including beg ch-sp.
Repeat Row 2: 13 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29) more times. Tie off.
Sleeve (make 2)
Leave a tail at least 2-3 yards long before beginning, then:
Row 1: Ch 2, sk 1 ch, Fhdc in 2nd ch from hook. Work 63 (63, 63, 63, 60, 60, 56, 56, 56) more Fhdc. You should have 64 (64, 64, 64, 61, 61, 57, 57, 57) sts, not including beg ch-sp.
OR
Row 1: Ch 66 (66, 66, 66, 63, 63, 59, 59, 59). Sk first 2 chs, hdc in 3rd ch from hook. Hdc in nxt 63 (63, 63, 63, 60, 60, 58, 58, 58) sts. You should have 64 (64, 64, 64, 61, 61, 57, 57, 57) sts, not including skipped chs from beg of row.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Rhdc in same st and in ea of nxt 9 sts. Hdc in ea of nxt 27 (27, 27, 27, 25, 25, 23, 23, 23) sts. Dc in ea of nxt 27 (27, 27, 27, 26, 26, 24, 24, 24) sts. You should have 64 (64, 64, 64, 61, 61, 57, 57, 57) sts, not including beg ch-sp.
Row 3: Ch 3, turn. Dc in same st and in ea of nxt 35 (35, 35, 35, 33, 33, 30, 30, 30) sts. Hdc in ea of nxt 18 (18, 18, 18, 17, 17, 16, 16, 16) sts. Rhdc in ea of nxt 10 sts. You should have 64 (64, 64, 64, 61, 61, 57, 57, 57) sts, not including beg ch-sp.
Repeat Rows 2-3: 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 16, 17) more times. You should have a total of 23 (25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 35, 37) rows, including Row 1. Repeat Row 2 once more.
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in same st and in ea of nxt 53 (53, 53, 53, 50, 50, 46, 46, 46) sts. Rhdc in ea of nxt 10 sts. You should have 64 (64, 64, 64, 61, 61, 57, 57, 57) sts, not including beg ch-sp. Tie off, leaving a tail at least 1 yard long.
Assembly
Block all pieces before seaming. Use the blocking method recommended for the type of yarn you are using.
To Block: (video tutorial here)
For natural fibers, pin project out on foam blocking mats. Spray with water until fully saturated, allow to dry.
OR
For acrylic fibers, pin project out on an ironing board or several layers of towels. Hold a steaming iron 2-3” over the surface of the fabric, making sure all of the fabric is penetrated by the steam. Allow to cool / dry.
Thread the very long tail at the top of the sleeve through your yarn needle. On one long edge of Body of Sweater, count the stitches and divide them in half. Place a stitch marker at the center point. Fold Sleeve in half lengthwise, so long edges are together. Place a stitch marker at the center of the top edge of the sleeve.
Line up marker on sleeve with marker on Body of Sweater. This is the top of the shoulder. Making sure both the sleeve and the sweater are laying flat, whip stitch the sleeve to the body of the sweater, beginning at the corner of the sleeve where the tail begins and stopping at the stitch markers.
Count how many stitches of the body of the sweater were sewn to the first half of the sleeve. Remove stitch marker from current position. Count out the same number of stitches from the body of sweater for the other half of the sleeve seam. Place the stitch marker at that point and line up the other corner of the sleeve with the marker.
Continue to whip stitch the sleeve to the body of the sweater until you reach the corner of the sleeve. Once you have stitched through the corner of the sleeve, take another stitch in the same place, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull the needle through to make a knot.
Do not cut the seaming yarn. Just remove it from the yarn needle. We will use it for the side seam later. Repeat instructions for this seam on the other sleeve.
Thread the shorter yarn tail from the cuff of the sleeve through your yarn needle. Fold Sleeve in half lengthwise so the two long edges are together. Starting from the cuff, whip stitch the long edges of the sleeve together.
Stop when you reach the point where the sleeve meets the body of the sweater. Take another stitch through that point, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull the needle through to make a knot. Weave in this yarn tail.
Thread the remaining tail from the sleeve-to-body-of-sweater seam through your yarn needle. Lay sweater out so the front side edge is next to the back side edge. Whip stitch these two edges together, stopping at the hem edge. Take another stitch through that point, wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull the needle through to make a knot. Weave in this yarn tail. Repeat instructions for these seams on other side of cardigan.
Edging:
With wrong side of left front (left front when worn) facing you, join yarn in 1st stitch at hem edge.
Row 1: Ch 2. Working up the left front edge toward the neck, Rhdc in same st and in ea of nxt 11 sts. Hdc in ea of nxt 85 (85, 87, 87, 89, 89, 89, 91, 91) sts. Dc3tog with remaining st from front, corner, and back neck edge. Hdc evenly across back neck edge, stopping when there is room left for one more st on back neck edge. Dc3tog with remaining space on neck edge, corner, and 1st st on front edge. Hdc in ea of nxt 85 (85, 87, 87, 89, 89, 89, 91, 91) sts. Rhdc in ea of nxt 12 sts.
Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Rhdc in same st and in ea of nxt 11 sts. Hdc in ea st across front edge, stopping when there is one more st before the dc3tog from previous row. Dc3tog. Hdc in ea st across back neck edge, stopping when there is one more st before the dc3tog from previous row. Dc3tog. Hdc in ea st across other front edge to last 12 sts, Rhdc in ea of last 12 sts.
Repeat Row 2: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) more times.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Rhdc in same st and in ea of nxt 11 sts. Hdc in ea st across to last 12 sts. Rhdc in ea of last 12 sts.
Row 4: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in same st and in ea st across.
Repeat Row 4: 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9) more times. Tie off, weave in ends.
Enjoy your finished Comfy Cozy Cardigan! Be sure to tag me on Instagram @yayforyarn when you post your project photos!
This pattern is intended for your personal use only. You may not share it, copy it, sell it, give it away, or mass-produce the finished product. However, you may sell the finished items on a small scale, as long as you convey in your item description that you used a Yay For Yarn pattern.
Yay For Yarn Copyright© 2018 – Current. All patterns and photos are owned by Yay For Yarn.
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How do you put the cardiagn together? I have crocheted all the pieces but not sure how to put together like how much do you leave open for the head
Hi Diane. The large slit in the body piece of the cardigan is the area where the cardigan is open down the front. So the sleeves are sewn onto the long edges of the body piece (the foundation row and the last row worked). There is no seam where you have to leave a space for the head or neck opening. The video tutorial shows how to assemble the cardigan step by step. I hope this helps!
Can you please provide the inches for the front panels for a Medium. I’d like to make this in double crochet.
I made this one for a child and it came out great..would like to modify slightly but would like to know how many inches are the panels and the back extra middle piece. Thanks!
Hi. If you’re making the Medium, the entire back panel should measure 20.8 inches wide, and each front panel should measure 7.2 inches wide. I hope this helps!
Hi, I am enjoying working this pretty cardigan, however I have a question I am looking at the written pattern and also watching you video – I have a question about repeating row(s) 4&5. In the video you mention for your size that you will need 16 and end on 4, but in the written pattern for the size it is only 5. Should I follow the written or listen to the video as I have now 16 rows and it looks like yours however when I referenced back to the written it states I should have only done 5? Please, if you could clairify for me. Thank you!!
Hi Jacqueline! The 16 rows that I mentioned in the video was for the whole center back section. I made the size small. So the first side section stops once you have finished repeating row 2, and then we begin the center back section. We work row 3 (1st row of this section), then work rows 4 and 5 for the first time (2 more rows for a total of 3 rows at this point). Then, I repeated rows 4-5 another 6 times for the Small. That’s 2 rows worked 6 more times, which adds 12 rows to the 3 we already did, so 15 rows at this point. Finally, the pattern says to repeat row 4 one more time, which adds another row, totaling 16 rows for the center back section. So, there are 16 rows in this whole section, and then we move on to the other side section. The number of total rows for the section in each size is not mentioned in the written pattern, because the number of times to repeat is more important to convey the instructions clearly. I hope this helps!
I’m making the Comfy Cozy Cardigan in size XL. I would like to make it longer by 6″ in the front and back. Could you please be so kind as to tell me how I may do this? Thank you very much.
Hi Lisa. You can lengthen the sweater a bit if you feel comfortable altering the pattern. You will just need to add stitches to each end of the rows for the body of the sweater. So if you want to add 6″ stitches in length, you’ll need to add 6″ worth of stitches on each end of the row. Those stitches will be part of the half-double crochet portion, not the ribbing. I hope this helps!
Thanks so much for this tutorial. I am attempting this for my husband….i have altered the pattern to make the body also ribbed on the back loop – so first 12 stitches ribbed as per your instruction and the rest until next ribbing on backloop. Waiting to see how it turns out.
Hi, can you post dimensions for the different pieces of the cardigan? I like to check gauge as I go. Does the pdf version have it?
Hi! The pattern includes the bust and length measurements of the finished cardigan, but that does not include the neck edging in the measurement. I highly recommend checking gauge before beginning, because the blocking and wearing of a finished sweater can affect the gauge quite a bit, and that can mess with the size. The gauge measurements given in the pattern are intended to be measured after blocking the gauge swatch for the most accurate measurement. For an even more precise gauge, I also recommend hanging the swatch up for about 24 hours to see if it stretches any. For example, if you liked the size of the sweater when you finished it, and then you wore it and it stretched in length from the weight of the fabric, the sweater might end up being longer than you wanted. Same goes for blocking. Blocking relaxes the fabric, and can change the gauge. So even if you don’t block your finished sweater, it may come out a different size once you’ve washed it. If you really want to, you can go by the finished bust and length measurements for the cardigan, but for best results, I highly recommend making and blocking a gauge swatch to check your gauge rather than checking as you go. I hope this helps!
Hi .. I love this pattern… however I would like to do it in a Aran weight yarn… would I be offending you if I asked you how I could adjust the pattern to use that pattern . I plan to knit it in a possible 3 or 4 x. ?
Hi Beverly! Although Aran yarn is just slightly thicker than Worsted, they are both in the #4 Medium category according to the standard yarn weight system. So you would not need to modify the pattern at all. Just use a hook size that will get you the correct gauge for the pattern, and you’ll be good to go. 🙂
Hey, let me start out by saying this sweater is amazing. And as a beginner crocheter the pattern is super easy to follow, and I can just tell it will turn out amazing.
But I just have a little question about the finishing. So in the picture the neckline finishing looks very thick, and the finishing rows make it look like it has sort of a collar. Is there a way to not make the finishing as thick, maybe by reducing the number of edging rows I do?
Thanks girl!
Hi Sarah! The neckline edging does fold back like a collar. So yes, if you don’t want it to fold back, you can just work fewer rows in the edging. I hope this helps, and I hope your cardigan turns out great!
I love this pattern. I have a question about the sleeve part. After I repeat rows 2-3 it says I should have 33 rows and i only have 19. Do you know what I did wrong?? Thank you!!
Hi Amanda. I think you might be counting the repeats incorrectly. If you are making the size that says you should have 33 rows total after repeating Rows 2-3, here’s how that breaks down. After working Rows 1, 2, and 3 the first time, you’ll have a total of 3 rows at this point. Then, for the size you’re making, it says to repeat Rows 2-3 15 more times. This does not mean that you’ll repeat those rows until you have worked 15 more rows. You have to count Rows 2 and 3 as a pair of rows. In other words, working Row 2 and Row 3 counts as repeating Rows 2-3 one time. So if you repeat Rows 2-3 15 more times, you’re repeating a pair of rows 15 times, which will add 30 rows to the 3 rows you worked at the beginning. Does that make sense? I hope this helps!
How much of a number difference would there be if using a different size thread? For example, I have this really nice yarn that I would like to use, but I have to use a size k needle. I’m at 40 stitches for the foundation for the bodice and it’s almost the proper length! What would you recommend for number adjustments?? Thank you in askance, this is a beautiful piece!
Hi Daphne. I don’t recommend using a different size yarn unless you are comfortable altering and writing patterns. The numbers if you’re using a thicker yarn would change by quite a lot, but I can’t really recommend any stitch counts for you without knowing your gauge, the size you are making, and etc. In other words, you can try to alter the pattern if you want to, but it may or may not turn out like the photos. Also, please keep in mind how the cardigan is constructed. The body of the sweater is worked sideways, and includes both the fronts and the back of the cardigan. So the length of row 1 should be twice as long as the finished back length measurement of the cardigan. I hope this helps!
Hey! Absolutely love this pattern and am currently in the midst of crocheting my cardigan! Would just like to know if there’s a rough estimate for how much yarn is needed for both sleeves as I’m planning to get them in a different colour, would love to hear from you! Thank you!
Hi Natalie! The amount of yarn required for the sleeves depends on the size. Depending on the size, the amount of yarn needed for both sleeves is about 21% to 28% of the total yarn requirement. I hope this helps!
Hello there! I’m just started this pattern. I love the look of this cardigan but I am getting extremely confused with the number of stitches. In row 3, you say to HDC in the next 70 stitches after the ribbing (I’m working a cardigan in the size large) and then in row 4 you say to HDC in 69 of those stitches and then HDC in the next 12. It leaves me short 1 stitch and your pattern says that I should still have 82 stitches total for that row…am I missing something? I have ripped out my work and started over on rows 3-5 multiple times and still get the same result….
Please help!
Hi Jordan! In row 3, it says to “ch 2, turn, Rhdc in same st AND in nxt 11 sts” (total of 12 Rhdc so far). Then, it says to Hdc in ea of nxt 70. This gives us a total of 82 stitches for the row (12+70). Then, on row 4, it says to “ch 2, turn, Hdc in SAME ST, AND in ea of nxt 69 sts (1+69=70 hdc so far). Then, it says to “Rhdc in ea of nxt 12 sts”. This again gives us 82 stitches (70+12). Each row specifies to work into the same stitch as the chain, and then gives the number for how many more stitches to work after that. This is because the turning chain does not count as a stitch in this pattern, so the first stitch of the row is always worked into the same stitch the chain is coming from. I hope this helps, and I hope your cardigan turns out great!
Hi.
I’m trying to make the Comfy Cozy Cardi.
I have 182 stitches. Completed the series of doing the 2 a total of 18 times.
I held the piece up and it’s beyond 5 feet long! I’m only 5’1″
I’ve done something wrong.
Hi Marie! The body of the sweater is actually both the front and the back all in one piece. So the piece you have worked so far includes the length of both the front and the back of the cardigan. To see how this piece will be in the finished sweater, lay the piece you have made so far over one shoulder, so the ends of the rows hanging in front are even with the ends of the rows hanging in the back.
However, if your piece at this point is over 5 feet long, it sounds like your gauge is way too large for what the pattern calls for. The finished back length of the sweater is only about 24″ to 25.5″, depending on the size, so the piece you have right now should not be over 5 feet long. If you continue following the pattern at the gauge you are working, the sweater will be much, much larger than you want it to be and use up far more yarn than the pattern says you need.
Here’s how to fix your gauge:
1. Please make sure the yarn you are using is #4 Medium, or worsted weight. If your yarn is a different thickness, that will throw off the finished size of the sweater by quite a lot.
2. If your yarn is #4 Medium / worsted weight, you’ll need to change your hook size until your stitches are the correct size for the pattern. It is more important to use a hook that will make your stitches the same size as the pattern calls for than to use the exact same hook size that the pattern suggests. Gauge is a measurement of the size of your stitches. If you’re not familiar with measuring gauge, I have a tutorial on that here. You’ll need to make a gauge swatch, or sample square, in half-double crochet, and measure your stitches. Once you have found which hook size gives you the same size stitches as the pattern calls for (mentioned under “Gauge”), use that hook to make the sweater. The reason the same hook size makes different sized stitches for different people is because each crocheter has their own personal tension. So to make sure that a garment like this turns out the correct size, we measure the stitches to find which hook will give you the correct sized stitches for the pattern with your own personal tension.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks!
You are adorable I just love your work. I hated crocheting and stopped for the longest time since all patterns seemed so outdated. I Have been knitting and crocheting since I was 18 and favour knitting and now am back to crocheting full time. Thanks so much for always having such good tutorials and clear and easy to follow patterns 🙂
Thanks so much, Karen! I’m so glad you are enjoying my patterns and tutorials!
Hi! I was given 400g Worsted weight yarn and wish to make size M in the cardigan, which might not be enough Yarn, but making cardigan Shorter might work? Can I just make my Panels shorter to come above Hip Height, making sure my Gauge is correct of course???
Hi Karen. Even if you make the cardigan shorter, 400 grams will not be enough yarn. The size medium calls for 1475 yards of worsted weight yarn. The Lion Brand Heartland yarn I used comes in 142 gram skeins. The medium requires almost 6 of those skeins if you’re using the same yarn as I did. 6 skeins at 142 grams each comes out to approximately 852 grams of yarn needed for the medium. So even if you shorten the sweater to above-hip length, you would only have enough yarn for a little over half of the sweater. To make this cardigan, you’ll need at least 1475 yards of worsted weight yarn. However, if you want to use the yarn you have for a different type of cardigan, you would have enough yarn to make my Seafoam Cardigan. I hope this helps!
Will it make any difference if I continue the rib stitches on the last rows? Thank you for the video and written instructions. Very nice cardigan!
Thanks, Karen! If you want to continue the rib stitches throughout the neckline / front edging, you can do that. It will give a slightly different look to the edging, as the ribbed texture will continue up the edging instead of only being at the bottom edge. I hope this helps!
I have begun making the sweater comfy cozy sweater I actually am very concerned I did the small that’s in the video where you end up with 178 stitches and when I driape this piece evenly over my shoulder front & back it hangs down past my knees and I’m an average sized person is this normal I even started over trying to make a tighter foundation half double crochet which I did and there’s no way I can get any tighter and it’s just a little bit shorter just just above my knees and in the picture it comes just passed the butt area what am I doing wrong here please answer thank you
Hi Lisa! The sweater is supposed to be about hip length on an average-height person. If it is way too long, there are a few things you can check.
1. Are you using a #4 Worsted Weight yarn? If the yarn is thicker or thinner than that, it can make the stitches the wrong size.
2. Did you check your gauge? If you crochet looser than I do, your stitches may be larger, even if you are using the same size hook as in the pattern. Try using a smaller hook and checking to make sure your gauge is correct for the pattern. For more info, I have a blog post on gauge here.
I hope this helps, and I hope your sweater turns out great!
Where do I find the video
Hi Tina! If you don’t have an adblocker turned on in your browser, the video should show up right below the beginning of the pattern instructions and scroll down the side of the screen as you scroll. Or, you can watch it on YouTube here. I hope this helps!
Hi!!!! I love this pattern bit when it comes to the sleeves for then xl and 2x Size the numbers didn’t add up. On Row 2 it says 33 dc 17 had and the the 10 ribbing half doubles. You said the ending count would be 61 but that is only 60 so I added one extra double crochet. Is that correct?
Hi Taylor. On row 3 of the sleeve for the 2X, it says to dc in same st AND in ea of nxt 33 sts. So in total, that is 34 double crochet before beginning the half-double crochets. So the final count is 61 sts for the row, not including the beg ch space. I hope this helps!
I am using a worsted weight yarn and the 5.5 mm hook like you suggested I’ve only completed the first 16 rows of 178 stitches when I fold that completed section in half & evenly drape it over my shoulders it hangs down to my knees. I even Ditched the first project and started over making sure to crochet tightly looks tighter than the way you do it in the video but the second try at it section still hangs down to just above my knees and I’m 5’4” I am hoping that you will tell me once I put all the pieces together when it’s completed that it will draw it up some what I just don’t know what else I can do and I’m exasperated about it. Was really looking forward to the sweater as I asked if I put it all together will it make it shorter? Again I’ve only completed the 178 stitch 16 Rows it looks like a long scarf at this point
Hi Lisa. It sounds like your sweater is much too long, but don’t worry! That can be fixed.
Assembling the sweater will not make it any shorter. If it is that much too long, your gauge is probably off. Here’s what you can do to fix it:
Lay your current piece out on a flat surface. Measure how many stitches you have in 3 inches and how many rows you have in 2 inches.
For your sweater to come out the right size, your stitches need to be the correct size for the pattern. The size of your stitches is your gauge.
This pattern calls for a gauge of 11 half-double crochet stitches in 3” and 5 half-double crochet rows in 2”. If you do not have enough stitches in 3 inches, your gauge is too large. Every crocheter is different, and just because you use the same yarn and hook size as the pattern calls for, that doesn’t mean that your stitches will be the same size. If your stitches are too large as described above, you’ll need to use a smaller hook than the pattern recommends.
To fix the problem:
1. With a smaller hook, make a square of half-double crochet, about 5 inches in length and width.
2. Measure how many stitches you get in 3 inches in your square, and how many rows you get in 2 inches.
3. If your gauge now matches the pattern gauge, you can use that hook size to make your cardigan.
4. If your gauge is still too large, make a new square with an even smaller hook and measure again to see if the stitches are now the correct size.
This will help you determine which hook size you will need to use for the pattern. Always remember that the hook size given in a pattern is a suggestion only, and it is more important that you match the gauge in the pattern than to use the same size hook as recommended in the pattern.
If you follow those steps to make sure your stitches are the right size, your cardigan will come out the correct size and length according to the dimensions given in the pattern.
I hope this helps!
Hi
I noticed that the sleeve I am making is shorter than expected. I used the 64 stitches for the medium size. Is this correct?
thanks!
Hi Jessica! Yes, that is correct. The sleeves may seem a little short, but that is because of the drop-shoulder style. Part of the body of the sweater extends over the shoulder, accounting for some of the length from shoulder to wrist. I hope this helps!
Yes it helps! I think I made my first sleeve not wide enough. How many rows should it be if I want it medium to large in size? Thanks so much! I have really enjoyed the pattern 🙂
I recommend doing the number of rows given in the instructions for your size. This sleeve is a looser-fitting sleeve. However, if you want to adjust the size of the sleeve, you can do more or less repeats of rows 2-3. I hope this helps!
I’m new at crocheting. I do not understand how many chains there needs to be for a size medium or Large. Could you help me out?
Hi Crissy! I would be happy to help. First, this project does not begin with a foundation chain. Instead, we begin with a row of foundation half-double crochet, which works the foundation chain and the first row of half-double crochet at the same time. (This is abbreviated as Fhdc in the pattern.) I have a full tutorial and free printable cheat sheet for this technique available here. It is not much harder to work than a regular half-double crochet, but it creates a neat, stretchy foundation edge. Since our rows are running vertically, this helps the side seams of the cardigan to hang evenly, because there is no foundation chain to limit the stretch of the foundation edge.
Secondly, the instructions for the different sizes are given as a string of numbers. As the pattern says, “Instructions and yarn requirements for size X-Small are given outside the parentheses, with Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X, 3X, 4X, and 5X given inside the parentheses, like this:
X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X).”
The Medium is the third size in the list, so every time you see a list of numbers, the correct number for the Medium will be the third number in the list. The same thing goes for the size Large, which is the fourth number in the list.
I hope this helps, and I hope your sweater turns out great! Please let me know if you have any more questions. 🙂
Hi,
I love this sweater.! I made one for myself and live in it. I need to make one for my sister in law. She is very tall and thin. She wears a size small but that size will be too short for her. How do I increase the length, but keep the other measurements for a small?
Hi! You can lengthen the sweater a bit if you feel comfortable altering the pattern. You will just need to add stitches to each end of the rows for the body of the sweater. So if you want to add 10 stitches in length, you’ll need to add 10 stitches on each end. Those stitches will be part of the half-double crochet portion, not the ribbing. I hope this helps, and I’m glad you are enjoying the pattern!
Hi. Which is the right side of this sweater?
Cheers,
Alicia
Hi Alicia! You can choose either side of the fabric to be the right side. Both sides of the fabric look basically the same. Hope this helps!
Nice simple pattern. Thank you for video too. Am really happy how it turned out for me. 🙂
You’re welcome, Cece! I’m so glad you are happy with your new sweater!
I am making this cardigan which is beautiful by the way. I am following the pattern here and watching the video which is very helpful. But I noticed in the video you say you are repeating rows 4 and 5 for a total of 16 rows according to the pattern. However the written pattern says to repeat rows 4 and 5 for a total of 5 (6, 6,7 etc) rows. Which is the back portion, so i am confused how many times we are supposed to repeat rows 4 and 5.
Thank you for the wonderful pattern but I think there maybe a typo?
Hi Leanne! The 16 rows that I mentioned in the video was for the whole center back section. I made the size small. So the first side section stops once you have finished repeating row 2, and then we begin the center back section. We work row 3 (1st row of this section), then work rows 4 and 5 for the first time (2 more rows for a total of 3 rows at this point). Then, I repeated rows 4-5 another 6 times for the Small. That’s 2 rows worked 6 more times, which adds 12 rows to the 3 we already did, so 15 rows at this point. Finally, the pattern says to repeat row 4 one more time, which adds another row, totaling 16 rows for the center back section. So, there are 16 rows in this whole section, and then we move on to the other side section. The number of total rows for the section in each size is not mentioned in the written pattern, because the number of times to repeat is more important to convey the instructions clearly. I hope this helps!
Can you use a # 3 yarn for this project.
Hi Gail! Since this pattern is written for #4 Worsted weight yarn, you cannot use a #3 weight yarn for this project. #3 yarn is thinner, so will throw off the gauge quite a bit, which will cause the sweater to come out the wrong size. I hope this helps!
Thanks for this pattern. I am pretty new to crocheting. For Row 2, after the first few RDHCs, I am now on the HDCs. Do I insert these into the top two strings of yarn? (The two strings of yarn you said NOT to insert the RDHCs into?) Or continue inserting into the horizontal string of yarn?
Thanks!
Hi Pauline! Yes, any time a pattern tells you to work a regular half double crochet, it is always worked into the top two strands of the stitch below, unless the instructions tell you otherwise. The ribbing half double crochet tells you to work into the third strand, so it is not worked into the top two strands. I hope this helps, and I hope your cardigan turns out great!
I ordered the sweater pattern and downloaded but took half an hour so cancelled. Now I can’t get pattern. Please tell me what I need to do. I really like the sweater. Ty
Hi Sheila! Thank you for contacting me. If the download took a long time, you might check your internet connection to make sure it is working properly. Also, sometimes if you have lots of tabs open in your browser or lots of programs open and running on your device, that can slow down the download. Try closing any other open programs or browser tabs and downloading it again. If you continue to have problems with the download, just let me know. I will do whatever I can to help!
Why do the stitch numbers go down for the larger sizes on the sleeves. It starts with 63 for xs, and shows 56 for 5x. Just wondering if that is correct.
Hi Michele! Yes, the sleeves for the smaller sizes do begin with more stitches than the sleeves for the larger sizes. The sleeve length is affected by the width of the body of the sweater. The drop-shoulder style makes the body of the sweater come over the shoulder, so part of the width of the body of the sweater takes up what would normally be part of the sleeve length. There is not as much difference in the center back neck-to-wrist measurement between sizes as there is in the width of the body of the sweater between sizes. Because the body of the sweater is wider for larger sizes, it takes up a little more of what would normally be the sleeve length as it comes over the shoulder. So, the sleeves on the larger sizes are a little shorter to compensate for the wider body of the sweater. This produces the correct center back neck-to-wrist measurement according to the Craft Yarn Council’s standard sizing guidelines. Hope this helps! Thanks!
I don’t know what I am doing wrong as I have watched the video and read the pattern at least four to five times now, but my ribbing is off somehow. I wish I could attach a picture to this comment as it is hard to describe. The columns of the ribbing are not regular; the space between the columns will be twice as wide and then they’ll be to evenly spaced columns and then another really wide space between columns even though I am crocheting the exact way I am told.
Hi Carol! I would be better able to help you with that if you could send me a photo of what is happening. Could you email a photo to blogger[at]yayforyarn.com? I will be happy to help!
The pattern doesnt list the number of starting chains anywhere. I bought the pattern and it’s not listed there either. Am I missing something?
Hi Linda! You’re right, the pattern does not list a number of starting chains. This is because this project uses a row of foundation half double crochet to begin instead of a foundation chain. (See instructions for Row 1.) The foundation half double crochet is a simple technique that creates the equivalent of a foundation chain and the first row of half double crochet at the same time. The foundation half double crochet is used instead of the regular foundation chain because the foundation half double crochet has the same amount of stretch as the rest of the fabric. A regular foundation chain would limit the stretch of the foundation edge, as it does not have as much stretch as the rest of the work. The video tutorial includes a demonstration of the foundation half double crochet at about 1 minute and 25 seconds. Hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any more questions!
I finished row 2 with the ribbing at each end but at the end of the row I still have my ch 2 space. I’m not sure what to do with it.
Thank you.
Hi Dawn! Yes, you should have the ch 2 space left. In this pattern, the ch space is not counted as a stitch, so we do not work into it on the following row. This is also why we work the first stitch of the row into the same stitch that the ch 2 is coming from (the ch 2 is not counting as being “worked into” that first stitch). Just keep checking to make sure your stitch count (not including the ch sp) is correct as you work. I hope this helps!
I have made 5 sweaters since March of 2018. I’m working on my 6th and 7th right now. One of which is for my husband. This cardigan is so cute. I’m looking forward to making it.
Thanks, Mary! I’m glad you like it!
Could I make this using a chunky yarn?
Hi Robin! This pattern is written for a #4 worsted weight yarn. A chunky yarn will be a bit thicker than worsted, which will make it very difficult to get the correct gauge. If the gauge you are working at does not match the gauge in the pattern, the sweater will turn out the wrong size (likely too big). So, I do not recommend using a chunky weight yarn for this project. I hope this helps!
Any tips for adding pockets?
Hi! If you want to add pockets, I would suggest making a square from the same half double crochet stitch that the sweater is made from, and sewing it on in the place you want the pocket. You can then measure the pocket’s distance from the hem edge and the front edge on that side and use those measurements to place the pocket on the other side so they will both be placed evenly. I think it would look best if the pocket is sewn on so the rows on the pocket go the same direction as the rows on the sweater, but that is just my personal preference. Hope this helps! Thanks!
I love this… but I’m using a thinner yarn(#3) and I’m using an H(5.00mm) hook. I get the 11 hdc in 3 inches. But I need 8 rows to make 2 inches. Can you tell me how many inches wide the 1st section is for the 3x size. And I’m sure I can work it out from there. I’ve done 6 1/2 inches so far.
Hi Betty. For the 3X, the first section (rows 1-2 and repeating row 2, before you begin working row 3) should measure about 10 1/2″. I hope this helps!
Howdy!!
Thank you for this pattern; it’s awesome and easy to follow!
I was wondering if you could clarify something for me?
I started working on the sleeves, but I’m confused as to why the larger sizes have a lower count of stitches. For example, XS the foundation chain asks for a total of 64, yet the 2X asks for a total of 61 stitches – I’m wondering if that’s correct?
You assistance would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Jessica. Yes, that is correct. The sweater is a drop-shoulder style, so part of the body of the sweater extends over the shoulder. Because the body piece comes further over the shoulder on the larger sizes, the sleeves don’t need to be quite as long for the larger sizes. The finished total sleeve length including the shoulder area is not shorter for the larger sizes. I hope this helps!