Free Pattern! A simple, textured, close-fitting, unisex hat for the whole family. Knit in #3 Sport / DK or #4 Worsted weight yarn, with instructions for 10 different sizes, from Preemie to Adult Large.
Table of Contents
Moss Stitch Hat Knitting Pattern
by Yay For Yarn
A simple, textured, close-fitting, unisex hat for the whole family. Knit in #3 Sport / DK or #4 Worsted weight yarn, with instructions for 10 different sizes, from Preemie to Adult Large.
Skill Level: Advanced Beginner
Abbreviations:
K: knit
P: purl
sl: slip
CO: cast on
sts: stitches
K2tog: knit 2 together
P2tog: purl 2 together
psso: pass slipped stitch over
Moss Stitch Hat Instructions
Written pattern for the Sport / DK Weight version is below, scroll down further for the Worsted Weight version.
Moss Stitch Hat in 10 Sizes – Sport / DK Weight Version
Instructions and yarn requirements for size Preemie are given outside the parentheses, and instructions and yarn requirements for all larger sizes are given inside the parentheses like this:
Preemie (0-6 Months, 6-12 Months, 12-18 Months, Child Small, Child Medium, Child Large, Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large).
Because there are so many sizes included in this pattern, I recommend printing it out and using a highlighter or pen to mark all of the correct numbers for the size you are working before you begin.
I added a Seed Stitch Bow to my Sport / DK weight hat. Click here to get the Free Pattern for the Seed Stitch Bow.
Needles:
US Size 4 circular knitting needles, 16” long and 32” long (for magic loop instead of double pointed needles) OR
US Size 4 double pointed needles, set of 5
NOTE: If working size Preemie or 0-6 Months, you must use double pointed needles, as a 16” circular needle will be too long. If you want to use a circular needle for those sizes, use a longer one with the magic loop method.
Yarn:
#3 Sport / DK weight yarn, 38 (46, 57, 77, 88, 97, 106, 115, 126, 137) yards.
You will also need:
4 Locking or Split-Ring Stitch Markers (if using double pointed needles, only 1 stitch marker)
Scissors
Ruler (for measuring gauge)
Yarn Needle or Blunt Tapestry Needle
Sizes (according to the wearer’s head circumference measurement):
Preemie: 12” circumference
0-6 Months: 13” circumference
6-12 Months: 14” circumference
12-18 Months: 16” circumference
Child Small: 17” circumference
Child Medium: 18” circumference
Child Large: 19 ¼” circumference
Adult Small: 21” circumference
Adult Medium: 22” circumference
Adult Large: 23” circumference
Hat is designed with negative ease, meaning the hat is a little smaller than the wearer’s head circumference, so it will stretch to comfortably stay on the head.
Actual Finished Size (circumference / hat length):
Preemie: 11” / 4 ½”
0-6 Months: 12” / 5”
6-12 Months: 13” / 5 ½”
12-18 Months: 14 ½” / 6 ¾”
Child Small: 15 ½” / 7 ¼”
Child Medium: 16 ½” / 7 ½”
Child Large: 17 ¾” / 7 ¾”
Adult Small: 19” / 8”
Adult Medium: 20” / 8 ¼”
Adult Large: 21 ¼” / 8 ½”
Gauge: 27 sts = 4” in moss stitch, 32 rows = 4” in moss stitch
With 16” circular needle OR double pointed needles and Long Tail Cast On,
CO 72 (80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136, 144) sts.
If using double pointed needles, divide stitches evenly onto 4 needles, clip stitch marker onto last stitch of cast on edge, and join to work in the round, making sure your cast-on is not twisted. This marker shows the end of the round. You will not have to “sl marker” at the end of each round.
If using circular needles, place marker onto right needle tip and join to work in the round, making sure your cast-on is not twisted.
Round 1: *K1, P1* around, sl marker. You should still have 72 (80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136, 144) sts.
Repeat Round 1 until you have a total of 5 (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 13, 13, 15) rows of ribbing. Work should measure approximately ⅝” (⅞”, ⅞”, 1 ⅛”, 1 ⅛”, 1 ⅜”, 1 ⅜”, 1 ⅝”, 1 ⅝”, 1 ⅞”) from cast-on edge.
Rounds 2-3: *P1, K1* around, sl marker. You should still have 72 (80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136, 144) sts.
Rounds 4-5: *K1, P1* around, sl marker. You should still have 72 (80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136, 144) sts.
Repeat Rounds 2-5 until you have a total of 15 (15, 17, 23, 25, 23, 23, 21, 21, 19) rounds of moss stitch. Work should measure approximately 2 ½” (2 ¾”, 3”, 4”, 4 ¼”, 4 ¼”, 4 ¼”, 4 ¼”, 4 ¼”, 4 ¼”) from cast-on edge, ending with Round 2 or Round 4.
Sizes Preemie, 0-6 Months, Child Small, Adult Small, and Adult Medium will end with Round 2.
Sizes 6-12 Months, 12-18 Months, Child Medium, Child Large, and Adult Large will end with Round 4.
If using circular needles, clip stitch markers onto cable after every 18th (20th, 22nd, 24th, 26th, 28th, 30th, 32nd, 34th, 36th) st. This divides the stitches into fourths.
If using double pointed needles, make sure stitches are divided onto the needles in fourths. You should have 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts on each double pointed needle. So, if pattern says to work until 4 sts left before marker, work until there are 4 sts left on the double pointed needle. You will not have to slip markers, but continue to refer to the marker on your cast-on edge to know where the end of the round is.
It is now time to decrease the crown of the hat. If you are using circular needles, there will come a point when the hat circumference is too small for the length of the needle. At that point, you can switch to the 32” needle and continue with the magic loop method, or switch to double pointed needles.
There are 2 pairs of decrease rounds, Pair A and Pair B, which alternate. If the size you are working ended with Round 2, begin with Pair A. If the size you are working ended with Round 4, begin with Pair B.
Pair A:
Round 1: (*P1, K1* to 4 sts before marker, P1. Sl 1 knitwise with yarn in back, K2tog, psso. Sl marker.) Repeat between (and) 3 more times around. 8 sts decreased.
Round 2: *K1, P1* around, slipping mid-round markers as you come to them, sl end of round marker.
Pair B:
Round 1: (*K1, P1* to 4 sts before marker, K1. Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front, P2tog, psso. Sl marker.) Repeat between (and) 3 more times around. 8 sts decreased.
Round 2: *P1, K1* around, slipping mid-round markers as you come to them, sl end of round marker.
Alternate working both pairs of decrease rounds until you have completed 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16) pairs of decrease rounds. You should have 16 sts left.
Final Round:
If your last pair of decrease rounds was Pair A, *K1, sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front, P2tog, psso, sl marker* around. You should have 8 sts left.
If your last pair of decrease rounds was Pair B, *P1, sl 1 knitwise with yarn in back, K2tog, psso, sl marker* around. You should have 8 sts left.
Cut yarn, leaving a 6”-8” tail. Use yarn needle to thread the tail through the remaining stitches on the needle(s). Cinch the little hole closed and tie off. Weave in ends.
This pattern is intended for your personal use only. You may not share it, copy it, sell it, give it away, or mass-produce the finished product. However, you may sell the finished items on a small scale, as long as you convey in your item description that you used a Yay For Yarn pattern.
Yay For Yarn Copyright© 2018- Current. All patterns and photos are owned by Yay For Yarn.
Moss Stitch Hat in 10 Sizes – Worsted Weight Version
Instructions and yarn requirements for size Preemie are given outside the parentheses, and instructions and yarn requirements for all larger sizes are given inside the parentheses like this:
Preemie (0-6 Months, 6-12 Months, 12-18 Months, Child Small, Child Medium, Child Large, Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large).
Because there are so many sizes included in this pattern, I recommend printing it out and using a highlighter or pen to mark all of the correct numbers for the size you are working before you begin.
Needles:
US Size 8 circular knitting needles, 16” long
and 32” long (for magic loop instead of double pointed needles) OR
US Size 8 double pointed needles, set of 5
NOTE: If working size Preemie or 0-6 Months, you must use double pointed needles, as a 16” circular needle will be too long. If you want to use a circular needle for those sizes, use a longer one with the magic loop method.
Yarn:
#4 Worsted weight yarn, 28 (33, 40, 55, 62, 68, 76, 82, 88, 95) yards.
You will also need:
4 Locking or Split-Ring Stitch Markers
Scissors
Ruler (for measuring gauge)
Yarn Needle or Blunt Tapestry Needle
Sizes (according to the wearer’s head circumference measurement):
Preemie: 12” circumference
0-6 Months: 13” circumference
6-12 Months: 14” circumference
12-18 Months: 16” circumference
Child Small: 17” circumference
Child Medium: 18” circumference
Child Large: 19 ¼” circumference
Adult Small: 21” circumference
Adult Medium: 22” circumference
Adult Large: 23” circumference
Hat is designed with negative ease, meaning the hat is a little smaller than the wearer’s head circumference, so it will stretch to comfortably stay on the head.
Actual Finished Size (circumference / hat length):
Preemie: 11” / 4 ½”
0-6 Months: 12” / 5”
6-12 Months: 13” / 5 ½”
12-18 Months: 14 ½” / 6 ¾”
Child Small: 15 ½” / 7 ¼”
Child Medium: 16 ½” / 7 ½”
Child Large: 17 ¾” / 7 ¾”
Adult Small: 19” / 8”
Adult Medium: 20” / 8 ¼”
Adult Large: 21 ¼” / 8 ½”
Gauge: 16 sts = 4” in moss stitch, 26 rows = 4” in moss stitch
With 16” circular needle OR double pointed needles and Long Tail Cast On,
CO 44 (48, 52, 58, 62, 66, 72, 76, 80, 86) sts.
If using double pointed needles, divide stitches evenly onto 4 needles, clip stitch marker onto last stitch of cast on edge, and join to work in the round, making sure your cast-on is not twisted. This marker shows the end of the round. You will not have to “sl marker” at the end of each round.
If using circular needles, place marker onto right needle tip and join to work in the round, making sure your cast-on is not twisted.
Round 1: *K1, P1* around, sl marker. You should still have 44 (48, 52, 58, 62, 66, 72, 76, 80, 86) sts.
Repeat Round 1 until you have a total of 4 (5, 5, 7, 8, 8, 10, 11, 11, 12) rounds of ribbing. Work should measure approximately ⅝” (¾”, ¾”, 1 1/16”, 1 ¼”, 1 ¼”, 1 ½”, 1 11/16”, 1 11/16”, 1 ⅞”) from cast-on edge.
Rounds 2-3: *P1, K1* around, sl marker. You should still have 44 (48, 52, 58, 62, 66, 72, 76, 80, 86) sts.
Rounds 4-5: *K1, P1* around, sl marker. You should still have 44 (48, 52, 58, 62, 66, 72, 76, 80, 86) sts.
Repeat Rounds 2-5 until you have a total of 15 (17, 19, 23, 25, 25, 25, 23, 25, 23) rounds of moss stitch. Work should measure approximately 3” (3 ⅜”, 3 11/16”, 4 ⅝”, 5 1/16”, 5 1/16”, 5 ⅜”, 5 ¼”, 5 ½”, 5 ⅜”) from cast-on edge, ending with Round 2 or Round 4.
Sizes 0-6 Months, Child Small, Child Medium, Child Large, and Adult Medium will end with Round 2.
Sizes Preemie, 6-12 Months, 12-18 Months, Adult Small, and Adult Large will end with Round 4.
For all sizes except 0-6 Months, Child Large, and Adult Medium:
You will need to work a preliminary pair of of decrease rounds before beginning the main decrease rounds. For this pair of rounds, I recommend placing the markers as described in the following instructions, even if you are using double pointed needles.
For size Preemie: Currently have 44 sts. Place marker after 22nd st.
Round 1: (*K1, P1* to 4 sts before marker, K1. Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front, P2tog, psso.) Sl marker. Repeat between (and) once more, sl end of round marker. You should now have 40 sts.
Round 2: *P1, K1* around, slipping mid-round markers as you come to them, sl end of round marker.
For size 6-12 Months: Currently have 52 sts. Place marker after 26th st.
Round 1: (*K1, P1* to 4 sts before marker, K1. Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front, P2tog, psso.) Sl marker. Repeat between (and) once more, sl end of round marker. You should now have 48 sts.
Round 2: *P1, K1* around, slipping mid-round markers as you come to them, sl end of round marker.
For size 12-18 Months: Currently have 58 sts. Place marker after 30th st.
Round 1: *K1, P1* to 4 sts before marker, K1. Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front, P2tog, psso. Sl marker. *K1, P1* to end of round, sl end of round marker. You should now have 56 sts.
Round 2: *P1, K1* around, slipping mid-round markers as you come to them, sl end of round marker.
For size Child Small: Currently have 62 sts. Place markers after 16th, 32nd, and 48th sts.
Round 1: (*P1, K1* to 4 sts before marker, P1. Sl 1 knitwise with yarn in back, K2tog, psso. Sl marker.) Repeat between (and) twice more. *P1, K1* to end of round, sl end of round marker. You should now have 56 sts.
Round 2: *K1, P1* around, slipping mid-round markers as you come to them, sl end of round marker.
For size Child Medium: Currently have 66 sts. Place marker after 34th st.
Round 1: *P1, K1* to 4 sts before marker, P1. Sl 1 knitwise with yarn in back, K2tog, psso. Sl marker. *P1, K1* to end of round, sl end of round marker. You should now have 64 sts.
Round 2: *K1, P1* around, slipping mid-round markers as you come to them, sl end of round marker.
For size Adult Small: Currently have 76 sts. Place marker after 38th st.
Round 1: (*K1, P1* to 4 sts before marker, K1. Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front, P2tog, psso.) Sl marker. Repeat between (and) once more, sl end of round marker. You should now have 72 sts.
Round 2: *P1, K1* around, slipping mid-round markers as you come to them, sl end of round marker.
For size Adult Large: Currently have 86 sts. Place markers after 22nd, 44th, and 66th sts.
Round 1: (*K1, P1* to 4 sts before marker, K1. Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front, P2tog, psso. Sl marker.) Repeat between (and) twice more. *K1, P1* to end of round, sl end of round marker. You should now have 80 sts.
Round 2: *P1, K1* around, slipping mid-round markers as you come to them, sl end of round marker.
Remove all markers currently on your needles EXCEPT the marker that shows the beginning/end of the round.
If using circular needles, clip stitch markers onto cable after every 10th (12th, 12th, 14th, 14th, 16th, 18th, 18th, 20th, 20th)st. This divides the stitches into fourths.
If using double pointed needles, make sure stitches are divided onto the needles in fourths. You should have 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18, 18, 20, 20) sts on each double pointed needle. So, if pattern says to work until 4 sts left before marker, work until there are 4 sts left on the double pointed needle. You will not have to slip markers, but continue to refer to the marker on your cast-on edge to know where the end of the round is.
It is now time to decrease the crown of the hat. If you are using circular needles, there will come a point when the hat circumference is too small for the length of the needle. At that point, you can switch to the 32” needle and continue with the magic loop method, or switch to double pointed needles.
There are 2 pairs of decrease rounds, Pair A and Pair B, which alternate. For sizes Preemie, 0-6 Months, 6-12 Months, 12-18 Months, Child Large, Adult Small, Adult Medium, and Adult Large, begin with Pair A. For sizes Child Small and Child Medium, begin with Pair B.
Pair A:
Round 1: (*P1, K1* to 4 sts before marker, P1. Sl 1 knitwise with yarn in back, K2tog, psso. Sl marker.) Repeat between (and) 3 more times around. 8 sts decreased.
Round 2: *K1, P1* around, slipping mid-round markers as you come to them, sl end of round marker.
Pair B:
Round 1: (*K1, P1* to 4 sts before marker, K1. Sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front, P2tog, psso. Sl marker.) Repeat between (and) 3 more times around. 8 sts decreased.
Round 2: *P1, K1* around, slipping mid-round markers as you come to them, sl end of round marker.
Alternate working both pairs of decrease rounds until you have completed 4 (4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) total pairs of decrease rounds (including preliminary pair of decrease rounds, if your size required it). You should have 16 sts left.
Final Round:
If your last pair of decrease rounds was Pair A, *K1, sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front, P2tog, psso, sl marker* around. You should have 8 sts left.
If your last pair of decrease rounds was Pair B, *P1, sl 1 knitwise with yarn in back, K2tog, psso, sl marker* around. You should have 8 sts left.
Cut yarn, leaving a 6”-8” tail. Use yarn needle to thread the tail through the remaining stitches on the needle(s). Cinch the little hole closed and tie off. Weave in ends.
This pattern is intended for your personal use only. You may not share it, copy it, sell it, give it away, or mass-produce the finished product. However, you may sell the finished items on a small scale, as long as you convey in your item description that you used a Yay For Yarn pattern.
Yay For Yarn Copyright© 2018- Current. All patterns and photos are owned by Yay For Yarn.
Pin the image below to save this pattern for later!
Hello and thank you so much for sharing the pattern! I do however have a question concerning the Sport version.. I’m knitting the Adult Large
You say :
Repeat Rounds 2-5 until you have a total of 15 (15, 17, 23, 25, 23, 23, 21, 21, 19) rounds of moss stitch. Work should measure approximately 2 ½” (2 ¾”, 3”, 4”, 4 ¼”, 4 ¼”, 4 ¼”, 4 ¼”, 4 ¼”, 4 ¼”) from cast-on edge, ending with Round 2 or Round 4.
Is there a typing mistake there? For the adult large it says that I’m supposed to knit 19 rounds of moss stitch before I start decreases.. Of course it’s too short and you can see that something is wrong there…
Can you please tell me how many rounds and how much it should measure approximately before I start decreases?
Thank you very much !!!!!
Hi Debbie. Yes, those numbers are correct. Because we are only decreasing in 4 places on each round, it takes more rounds to decrease all the stitches away than for other styles of hats that have many decreases worked near the top of the hat. This method decreases the stitches more gradually. So the larger sizes require more decrease rounds than the smaller ones. This is probably different than some of the other hat patterns you may have used before, but the rest of the length of the hat will be part of the decrease rounds. Does that make sense? If you have any more questions, just let me know. I am happy to help!
I’m knitting the moss hat but can’t seem to keep the moss stitch pattern when I do either the Pair A or B decrease. I can’t seem to figure out the problem. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks so much.
Lynn
Hi Lynn! What makes the moss stitch continue into the decrease rounds is making sure to start with the correct pair of decrease rounds for your size, and then alternate the pairs of decrease rounds.
So for example, if you were knitting the size Child Medium, the straight part of the hat before decreasing would end with Round 4 of the moss stitch pattern. According to the instructions, if the size you are making ends with Round 4, you’ll begin the decrease portion of the hat by first working decrease round Pair B. Then, you would alternate working Pair A and Pair B until you have worked the correct number of decrease round pairs for the size you are making. So what makes the moss stitch line up correctly is working the decrease round pairs in the correct order for the size you are making.
Does that help? Please let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks!
Thank you so much for the free pattern! Really love the hat. Was wondering if you could grant me permission to share this with the ‘Knit/Crochet-for-A-Cause’ group at church. We are making hats for the local cancer care center. The version with the bow would be great for the patients at the Infusion Center. Would like to use both, the DK and Worsted versions.
Hi Aida! I’m so glad you like the pattern! If you’d like to share it with your craft group, you are welcome to share the video tutorial and the free version of the pattern in the blog post above. However, if you were to purchase the printable PDF version, that is for your personal use only and may not be shared or copied. Hope this helps! Happy Yarning!
Nice hat and very thorough instructions. Well done! It’s going on my list.
Thanks, Judy! I’m so glad you like it!
Hello! Thank you so much for sharing this pattern! I just started the hat in the Adult Medium size, but I don’t see the instructions for decreasing for that size. Would you be able to help me with that? Thank you!
Suzanne
Hi Suzanne. The pairs of preliminary decrease rounds are not needed for all sizes, so the pattern does not give instructions there for the Adult Medium. Instead, you’ll follow the pattern up to the point where you have finished repeating Rounds 2-5 (ending with Round 2 for Adult Medium), and skip past the preliminary decrease section. Right after the preliminary decrease instructions for the Adult Large, you can continue following the pattern from there. You’ll only need to use the pairs of decrease rounds (Pair A and Pair B) as instructed for the Adult Medium. I hope this helps!
Hi! Thank you so much for getting back to me! And I totally now see the instruction “For all sizes except…Adult Mediium”!! My bad! ???? My hat is looking great!! Thank you again for your very kind reply. Take care and happy knitting!