This lightweight, striped infinity scarf is covered with a spattering of speckles! Knit one today in your favorite soft, fingering weight yarn.
Speckled Stripes Infinity Scarf Knitting Pattern
by Yay For Yarn
Skill Level: Intermediate
You Will Need:
About 293 yards of #1 Fingering weight yarn in Color A
About 293 yards of #1 Fingering weight yarn in Color B (I used KnitPicks Stroll Fingering, 462 yards / 100 g per skein, in *Grape and *Grape Speckle, 1 skein in each color.)
US Size 2 / 2.75 mm Circular Knitting Needle, 16” long (like this one, or you can use a longer circular needle with the magic loop method if you prefer)
Scissors
Ruler or Measuring Tape
Yarn Needle or Blunt Tapestry Needle
2 Lengths of Waste Yarn, at least 18” long
Small, Ring-Style Stitch Marker
*These colorways are from a limited edition series, and are no longer available. However, you can substitute two different colorways of KnitPicks Stroll, or any #1 Fingering weight yarn you like.
Shop Supplies for this Project
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Chibi Metal Yarn Needles – Amazon
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Knitter’s Pride Rainbow Folding Scissors
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KnitPicks Knitting Stitch Markers
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Gauge: 8 stitches = 1” (2.54 cm); 11 rows = 1” (2.54 cm) in stockinette stitch
Finished Size: Scarf tube is 6” wide (15.2 cm), 12” (30.5 cm) circumference, 33” (83.8 cm) long
Abbreviations:
K: knit
P: purl
SL: slip
sts: stitches
purlwise: inserting the needle as if to purl, but don’t actually purl the stitch
I used my Grape yarn (purple) for Color A, and my Grape Speckle yarn (white) for Color B.
Scarf is knit as a tube, in the round. At the end, we will graft the ends of the tube together to make it an infinity scarf. We will begin with a Provisional Cast On, which uses a piece of waste yarn to hold the live loops of the cast on edge until we can graft those stitches later.
Speckled Stripes Infinity Scarf Instructions
How to do the Provisional Cast On:
Hold the knot up against the knitting needle in your right hand. In your left hand, hold both yarns in the “slingshot” position as follows:
Let the waste yarn and working yarn hang down. The waste yarn should be closest to you. Insert forefinger and thumb between the two strands of yarn hanging from the needle.
Use your remaining fingers to grasp both yarns in the palm of your hand and pull the yarn with your thumb and forefinger pointing up and back.
The waste yarn should be coming over your thumb into the palm of your hand, and the working yarn should be coming over the index finger into the palm of your hand.
To cast on the first stitch (step 1):
Bring the needle tip towards you. Reach it under the waste yarn, over the top of the working yarn, and bring the working yarn under and in front of the waste yarn.
To cast on the second stitch (step 2):
Reach the needle tip over the top of the waste yarn and behind the working yarn, pulling it forward (like doing a yarnover).
Continue repeating steps 1 and 2 until you have cast on the number of stitches required. You will end with step 2, so twist the waste yarn with the working yarn to keep the last stitch on the needle.
With Color A, cast on 98 sts with Provisional Cast-On.
Place marker on right needle and join to work in the round, making sure your cast on is not twisted.
First ½ stripe:
Rounds 1-15: K around, sl marker.
Stripe 1:
Change to Color B, leaving a 6″ (15.2 cm) tail of each color yarn.
Round 16: K around, sl marker.
Round 17: SL 1 st purlwise, K around. SL marker.
Rounds 18-45: K around, sl marker.
Weave in tails from color change.
Stripe 2:
Change to Color A, leaving a 6″ (15.2 cm) tail of each color yarn. Repeat rounds 16-45. Weave in tails from color change.
Stripe 3:
Change to Color B, leaving a 6″ (15.2 cm) tail of each color yarn. Repeat rounds 16-45. Weave in tails from color change.
Stripes 4-11:
Repeat Stripes 2 and 3. The last stripe worked should be in Color B.
Final ½ stripe:
Change to Color A, leaving a 6″ (15.2 cm) tail of each color yarn. Repeat rounds 16-29. Weave in tails from color change.
To Weave in Tails from Each Color Change:
Because the yarn tails from changing colors are not secured yet, the last stitch of the old color and the first stitch of the new color will be loose, leaving a small hole. To close the hole and secure the tails, we need to weave them in. By weaving them in in opposite directions, we can minimize or eliminate the “jog” in the stripe, where the first row in the new color is offset.
On the wrong side of the fabric, take the yarn tails and cross them, so they are going in opposite directions. The yarn tail on the left should go to the right, and the yarn tail on the right should go to the left. Then, pull on both tails until the gap closes, and until the stitches look neat and even from the right side.
Thread the yarn tail going to the left into your yarn needle. Begin weaving the tail in towards the left into the first round of the matching color fabric, following the strand of yarn that is making up the first round.
Weave in the tail until you only have about an inch of yarn left, making your last stitch in the direction of the matching fabric.
Thread the yarn tail going to the right into your yarn needle. Begin weaving the tail in towards the right into the last round of the matching color fabric, following the strand of yarn that is making up the last round.
Weave in the tail until you only have about an inch of yarn left, making your last stitch in the direction of the matching fabric.
Grafting the Ends Together (video tutorial here)
Once the knitting is finished, thread the other length of waste yarn into your yarn needle. Remove the stitch marker from the knitting needle. Begin picking up stitches off the knitting needle onto the yarn needle, by inserting the yarn needle into each stitch on the knitting needle purlwise and lifting it off the knitting needle. Continue until all the stitches on the knitting needle are held on the waste yarn.
Make sure the knitted tube is not twisted. Lay the tube flat, and bring the ends together so the tails of the waste yarn from both ends of the tube line up. The end of the tube with the working yarn coming off of it should be closer to you, and the other end (cast-on end) should be situated above it.
With the working yarn, leave a tail at least 1 yard long, and cut the yarn. Thread this yarn onto your yarn needle. We will be grafting the ends of the tube together with this yarn.
The grafting is worked from right to left. The waste yarn tails come from between the first and last stitch of the round. The working yarn comes from the last stitch of the final round.
Line up the first stitches on each length of waste yarn – the first stitch on the end of the tube that is closest to you should align with the first stitch on the cast-on end of the tube.
The stitches from both ends of the tube are held on the waste yarns. The stitches on the waste yarn at the cast-on end will not all sit on the waste yarn facing the same direction.
We want to make sure that the stitches do not get twisted as we graft, so ignore which way the stitch loops sit on the waste yarn. Just focus on keeping each stitch loop from twisting.
On the closer end of the tube, bring the yarn needle up through the first stitch on the waste yarn.
Stitching the Graft
Step 1:
On the cast-on end of the tube, insert your needle down through the first stitch and up through the next stitch.
Step 2:
On the closer end of the tube, insert your needle down through the stitch your needle came out of the last time you stitched into this end of the tube, then bring your needle up through the next stitch.
Step 3:
On the cast-on end of the tube, insert your needle down through the stitch your needle came out of the last time you stitched into this end of the tube, then bring your needle up through the next stitch.
Step 4:
On the closer end of the tube, insert your needle down through the stitch your needle came out of the last time you stitched into this end of the tube, then bring your needle up through the next stitch.
Continue repeating steps 3 and 4 all the way around. The photo at right shows a small grafted section of the knitting.
Stop repeating steps 3 and 4 when you have stitched through all the stitches on both pieces of waste yarn.
There will be a small hole at the beginning / end of the graft.
Check to make sure the grafting stitches look good, then carefully pull out each piece of waste yarn. Next, we will close up the hole at the end.
To close the hole:
On the cast-on end of the tube, insert your needle down through the stitch your needle came out of the last time you stitched into this end of the tube, then bring your needle up through the first stitch of the round (the first one you worked into on this end of the tube).
On the closer end of the tube, insert your needle down through the stitch your needle came out of the last time you stitched into this end of the tube, making sure the needle stays on the outside of the tube.
Now, bring your needle down right next to the last stitch, and up very close to where the other yarn tail is coming from. There should be one horizontal strand of yarn between the two tails.
Tie the two tails together in a knot. Thread each tail into your yarn needle, and slip the tails inside of the tube.
To Block:
For natural fibers, lay your scarf out on a towel or foam blocking mats. Spray with water until fully saturated, allow to dry.
OR
For acrylic fibers, lay your scarf out on an ironing board or several layers of towels. Hold a steaming iron 2”-3” over the surface of the fabric, making sure all of the fabric is penetrated by the steam. Allow to cool / dry.
This pattern is intended for your personal use only. You may not share it, copy it, sell it, give it away, or mass-produce the finished product. However, you may sell the finished items on a small scale, as long as you convey in your item description that you used a Yay For Yarn pattern.
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