This summer cardigan crochet pattern is quick and easy to make! Crochet your own with this free cardigan crochet pattern and video tutorial.
I love designing crochet garment patterns. There are so many ways to make your own clothing with crochet, and it doesn’t have to be difficult, confusing, or complicated. The Diamond Cardigan is easier to make than you might think! It’s made in one piece from a slightly modified rectangle, so you don’t have to worry about any shaping.
This loose-fitting, oversized cardigan features an easy-to-work diamond eyelet stitch pattern, which makes decorative holes in the fabric. Those little holes allow air to pass through the fabric, helping to make the cardigan breathable.
The cardigan can be styled many different ways to create stylish outfits for spring, summer, and fall. I think it would look great as a beach cover up as well!
Table of Contents
How to Choose the Best Yarn for a Crochet Summer Cardigan
This women’s cardigan crochet pattern calls for #4 Medium / Worsted Weight yarn. I prefer to use a washable, low-fuzz yarn for summer garment projects. For the Diamond Cardigan, I chose to use Lion Brand ZZ Twist, a smooth, washable, fuzz-free acrylic yarn with lovely drape.
This yarn is spun with a Z-twist, in the opposite direction that most yarns are spun. It is 100% acrylic, but the yarn is very smooth, slightly silky, and does not have any fuzz, which makes it great for crocheting a summer cardigan. If a yarn is fuzzy, the garment made from it will trap body heat. That’s great for a winter sweater, but not for summer clothes! For this project, you’ll want to use a yarn that has very little fuzz to it. (See this blog post for tips on choosing yarns for summer garment projects.)
If you’d like to make this cardigan for cooler seasons of the year, feel free to choose any #4 Worsted Weight yarn you like, even if it is a little fuzzy. 🙂
When selecting the yarn you want to use for this pattern, make sure the yarn label says it is #4 Worsted Weight. Then, purchase enough skeins of the yarn you want to use so that you have at least the total number of yards required in the pattern for the size you are making.
How do I Choose a Size?
The Diamond Cardigan crochet pattern includes instructions for 3 sizes, which cover from women’s Extra Small to 5X. To decide which size you want to make, you’ll need to measure around the fullest part of the bust. Then, follow the instructions in the “Sizing” section of the pattern to select the size according to the wearer’s bust measurement.
Please note that the cardigan length will fall differently on individuals of different heights. The sample cardigan is shown on a petite model. To see how long the cardigan will fall on you, measure 28” / 71 cm down from the shoulder.
Can I crochet this if I am a beginner?
This free summer cardigan crochet pattern uses simple construction, with a few special stitches. If you’re comfortable with simple crochet techniques, and familiar with reading a written pattern, you can make this project. Plus, there’s a full video tutorial for this project, which will walk you through the written instructions and help you follow along.
Ready to get started? Let’s crochet the Diamond Cardigan!
Diamond Cardigan Crochet Pattern
by Yay For Yarn
Skill Level: Advanced Beginner
Sizing:
Sizing follows the Craft Yarn Council’s standards for Women’s sizes.
– This cardigan is designed to be over-sized and loose-fitting. Sizes are combined into size groups.
– Instructions and yarn requirements for Size 1 are given outside the parentheses, with Size 2 and Size 3 given inside the parentheses, like this: Size 1 (Size 2, Size 3).
– When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle or highlight all numbers that apply to your size before beginning.
Size 1: Fits sizes X-Small, Small, and Medium (30” – 38” / 76 cm – 97 cm bust)
Size 2: Fits sizes Large, X-Large, and 2X (40” – 50” / 102 cm – 127 cm bust)
Size 3: Fits sizes 3X, 4X, and 5X (52” – 62” / 132 cm – 158 cm bust)
Finished Bust: About 46.5” (57.5”, 68.5”) / 117 cm (146 cm, 174 cm)
Finished Length: 28” / 71 cm
Please Note: Cardigan length will fall differently on individuals of different heights. Sample cardigan is shown on a petite model. To see how long the cardigan will fall, measure 28” / 71 cm down from the shoulder.
You Will Need:
- Approx. 1440 (1800, 2165) Yards of #4 Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Lion Brand ZZ Twist in Green Apple, 100% Acrylic, 3.5 oz / 100g / 246 yds per skein, 6 (8, 9) skeins)
- US Size H / 5 mm Crochet Hook (I used this one)
- Scissors
- Measuring Tape
- Yarn Needle or Blunt Tapestry Needle
Gauge: 26 stitches = 6” (15.2 cm); 13 rows = 6” (15.2 cm) in main stitch pattern
Abbreviations:
st(s): stitch(es)
sk: skip
nxt: next
ea: each
sp: space
beg: beginning
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet
*Fsc: foundation single crochet
*CSDC: chainless starting double crochet
*This is a special stitch. See instructions below to learn how to work this stitch.
Special Stitches
Foundation Single Crochet (video tutorial here)
To begin, chain 2. Insert hook into the 2nd chain from the hook. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through one loop on hook (one chain made). Yarn over, pull through both remaining loops on hook.
For all following stitches: Turn work upside-down so the bottom (foundation) edge is facing you. On the bottom of the previous stitch, there is what looks like the top of a normal crochet stitch (the chain from the previous stitch). Insert hook into both strands of that “stitch”. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through one loop on hook (chain made). Yarn over, pull through both remaining loops on hook.
Chainless Starting Double Crochet: (video tutorial here)
Stretch loop on hook until it is slightly longer than a regular double crochet. Holding the top of the loop still with your finger, yarn over with the stretched loop on your hook (not the working yarn) 1 time. Insert the hook into the specified stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop of yarn. (Yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook) 2 times.
Pattern for Gauge Swatch
Row 1: Ch 41. Sk 1st ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across. <40 sts, not including skipped ch.>
Row 2: Turn. CSDC in same st. *Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 10 sts.* Repeat from *to* 2 more times. Ch 2, sk 2, dc in last st. <40 sts including ch sts>
Row 3: Turn. CSDC in same st, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp. *Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 sts, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.* Repeat from *to* 2 more times. Dc in last st.
Row 4: Turn. CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 2 sts. *2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 2 sts.* Repeat from *to* 2 more times. Dc in last st.
Row 5: Turn. CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 4 sts. *2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 6 sts.* Repeat from *to* once more. 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 5 sts.
Row 6: Turn. CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 4 sts. *Ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 sts.* Repeat from *to* once more. Ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 5 sts.
Row 7: Turn. CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 2 sts. *Ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 2 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 2 sts.* Repeat from *to* 2 more times. Dc in last st.
Row 8: Turn. CSDC in same st. *Ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 6 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.* Repeat from *to* 2 more times. Ch 2, sk 2, dc in last st.
Repeat Rows 3-8 twice more. Tie off, block, and measure gauge. After blocking, swatch should measure 9.2” (23.4 cm) wide by 8.7” (22 cm) long.
Diamond Cardigan Instructions
Notes:
This cardigan is worked back and forth in rows, and made in one piece, beginning at the back hem, and working up to the shoulders and down the front. Width is added to the sides to create the sleeve shape as we work.
This pattern begins with a row of foundation single crochet instead of a foundation chain. The foundation single crochet is simple to work, and makes the foundation chain and the first row of single crochet at the same time. The foundation edge, when worked in this way, has much more stretch and flexibility than a regular foundation chain. I highly recommend using the foundation single crochet to begin your panel, but instructions for a regular foundation chain and row of single crochet are also included.
Each chain stitch counts as a stitch, except when otherwise noted in the final stitch count for the row.
Back
Row 1: Begin by leaving a tail at least 2 yards long. Ch 2, fsc in 2nd ch from hook. Work 99 (123, 147) more fsc for a total of 100 (124, 148) sts. <100 (124, 148) sts, not including beg chs.>
OR
Row 1: Ch 101 (125, 149). Sk 1st ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in ea ch across. <100 (124, 148) sts, not including skipped ch.>
Row 2: Turn. CSDC in same st. *Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 10 sts.* Repeat from *to* until 3 sts remain. Ch 2, sk 2, dc in last st. <100 (124, 148) sts including ch sts>
Row 3: Turn. CSDC in same st, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp. *Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 sts, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.* Repeat from *to* until 1 st remains. Dc in last st.
Row 4: Turn. CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 2 sts. *2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 2 sts.* Repeat from *to* until 1 st remains. Dc in last st.
Row 5: Turn. CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 4 sts. *2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 6 sts.* Repeat from *to* until 11 sts remain. 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 5 sts.
Row 6: Turn. CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 4 sts. *Ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 sts.* Repeat from *to* until 11 sts remain. Ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 5 sts.
Row 7: Turn. CSDC in same st, dc in nxt 2 sts. *Ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 2 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 2 sts.* Repeat from *to* until 1 st remains. Dc in last st.
Row 8: Turn. CSDC in same st. *Ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 6 sts, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.* Repeat from *to* until 3 sts remain. Ch 2, sk 2, dc in last st.
Repeat Rows 3-8; 6 (5, 4) more times. You should still have 100 (124, 148) sts at this point. Tie off. We will now add the width we need for the sleeves.
Upper Back
Row 9: Starting with new yarn, ch 24. Turn the work so the back of the last row is facing you. Dc in first st, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp. *Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 sts, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.* Repeat from *to* until 1 st remains. Dc in last st, ch 26. <150 (174, 196) sts, including ch sts.>
Row 10: Turn. Sk 3 chs (those 3 chs count as first st, last st of nxt row should be worked into top ch of the 3), dc in nxt 4 chs. Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 2 chs, ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 chs. Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 2 chs, ch 2, sk 2, dc in last ch st, dc in nxt 3 dcs. *2 dc in nxt ch-sp, ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp, dc in nxt 2 sts.* Repeat from *to* until 1 dc remains from previous row. Dc in last dc, dc in nxt ch st. Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 2 chs, ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 chs. Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 2 chs, ch 2, sk 2, dc in last 5 chs. <148 (172, 196) sts>
Repeat Rows 5-8 once more.
Repeat Rows 3-8; 1 (2, 3) more time(s). You should still have 148 (172, 196) sts at this point. We will now divide the width of our piece into two to create each side of the cardigan front.
Right Front
Row 15: Turn. CSDC in same st, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp. *Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 sts, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.* Repeat from *to* 4 (5, 6) more times. Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 sts, ch 2, sk 2, 3 dc in nxt ch-sp. STOP. Do not continue working across previous row. <You should now have 76 (88, 100) sts.>
Repeat Rows 4-8 once more.
Repeat Rows 3-8; 3 (4, 5) more times. Tie off.
We will now make the front panel narrower, as the following section of the right front does not include the width of the sleeves.
Turn work so back of last row is facing you. Starting at tie-off point, sk 24 sts, join yarn in 25th st. Repeat Rows 3-8; 7 (6, 5) more times. <You should have 52 (64, 76) sts.>
Row 16: Turn. Stretch loop on hook slightly, sc in same st. Sc in ea st and ch-st across. Tie off.
Left Front
Join yarn in center ch-sp of last row of Upper Back. (This is the same ch-sp where last 3 dc from Row 15 of Right Front are worked.) The front of Row 15 from Right Front should be facing you.
Row 15: CSDC in ch-sp, 2 dc in same ch-sp. *Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 sts, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch-sp.* Repeat from *to* 5 (6, 7) more times. Dc in last st. <You should now have 76 (88, 100) sts.>
Repeat Rows 4-8 once more.
Repeat Rows 3-8; 3 (4, 5) more times.
We will now make the front panel narrower, as the following section of the left front does not include the width of the sleeves.
Row 16: Turn. CSDC in same st, 2 dc in nxt ch sp. *Ch 2, sk 2, dc in nxt 6 sts, ch 2, sk 2, 2 dc in nxt ch sp.* Repeat from *to* 3 (4, 5) more times. Dc in last st. STOP. Do not continue working across previous row. <You should now have 52 (64, 76) sts.>
Repeat Rows 4-8 once more.
Repeat Rows 3-8; 6 (5, 4) more times.
Row 17: Turn. Stretch loop on hook slightly, sc in same st. Sc in ea st and ch-st across. Tie off, leaving a tail at least 2 yards long.
Weave in ends, except for the two long yarn tails that we will be using for seaming.
To Block: (video tutorial here)
For natural fibers, pin project out on foam blocking mats. Spray with water until fully saturated, allow to dry.
OR
For acrylic fibers, pin project out on an ironing board or several layers of towels. Hold a steaming iron 2-3” over the surface of the fabric, making sure all of the fabric is penetrated by the steam. Allow to cool / dry.
Assembly
Fold Right Front and Left Front down so that the last rows of both fronts meet the first row of the Back. Thread one of the long yarn tails through your yarn needle, and whip stitch the front and back of one side of the cardigan together at the side seam. When you reach the top of the side edge, continue whip stitching the horizontal edges of the sleeve from both the front and the back together. Tie off.
Repeat seaming instructions for other side seam. Weave in all ends.
This pattern is intended for your personal use only. You may not share it, copy it, sell it, give it away, or mass-produce the finished product. However, you may sell the finished items on a small scale, as long as you convey in your item description that you used a Yay For Yarn pattern.
Yay For Yarn Copyright© 2020 – Current. All patterns and photos are owned by Yay For Yarn.
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I am crocheting this garnment but I see no room/with for my neck. Hopelijk do I that. Idon’t see a picture of the backside.
Hi Beerta! The piece is divided into the left and right fronts before the top of the shoulder, so the slit that makes the front opening begins behind the back neck. Since the slit begins behind the back neck, the two fronts lay around each side of the neck, leaving room for the neck opening. I hope this helps, and I hope your cardigan turns out great!
I am making the larger size cardigan. Is there a mistake with the repeat rows 3-8 as far as how many for the larger size? You have 6 (5,4) for the repeat pattern. Shouldn’t it be 4 (5,6)? Why would the larger size have fewer repeat rows?
Hi! I can see why it would seem that the numbers should be reversed, but those numbers are actually correct. The larger sizes are not shorter in overall length, but the armholes are slightly deeper on the larger sizes. So to create the deeper armholes, we begin widening the panel to add the sleeves at a slightly lower point on the piece. Does that make sense? If you have any more questions, just let me know. 🙂
Hi! I’ve had this pattern in mind for a while now, and finally decided to get the yarn for it. Sadly, after checking the yarn you recommended I found out that Lion Brand discontinued it. 🙁 Do you have any recommendations for different yarns I can use for this cardigan?
With that said, I’m also going to try to make sense of your reply to Soko’s comment below, I think I’ll also make my future product longer than mentioned, haha. Thanks so much for the beautiful pattern!! 🙂
Hi! Yes, they did discontinue ZZ Twist. You can substitute another #4 Weight yarn. If you want to wear it in cold weather, you can substitute any yarn you like. However, if you want to wear it year round, I recommend a yarn that is good for summer garments, something smooth with little surface fuzz. I have a guide on choosing good summer yarns here. If I were to make this cardigan again in a different yarn, I would probably use Comfy Worsted. I hope this helps!
Hello, will you please confirm if this is correct:
Repeat Rows 3-8; 6 (5, 4) more times. You should still have 100 (124, 148) sts at this point. Tie off. We will now add the width we need for the sleeves.
Or should it be “Repeat Rows 3-8; 4 (5, 6)?
Thank you!
Hi! Yes, 6 (5, 4) is correct. It may seem like it should be the other way around, but because the larger sizes have deeper armholes, the sleeve begins at a lower point on the piece. So for the larger sizes, we work fewer repeats in the lower portion of the cardigan, and more repeats in the sleeve area. The finished piece comes out the same length for all sizes, but the armholes just begin at different points. I hope this helps!
Hello, I have had this page bookmarked for a long time to make. I was just about to order yarn, but I’m glad that I read the full pattern first. According to the mearsurements, this cardigan will only fall to beneath my buttocks. Do you have instructions on whereI could repeat rows to lengthen this?
Thank you!
Hi! Yes, you can add length if you like. To do this, you’ll need to repeat Rows 3-8 of the Back an extra time, and add an extra repeat of Rows 3-8 to both the lower portion of the Right Front (before row 16 of right front), and the lower portion of the Left Front (before row 17 of left front). Just make sure you add the same number of extra repeats to all three sections so the cardigan length will be even all around. I hope this helps!
Thank you! I am excited to get started on this!
Love the sweater…can’t wait to make it.
Love this sweater can’t wait to start. Lol just trying to decide what color I want to do it in.
leuk patroon
Love this sweater!
Hello yay, I love this jacket. I just began working on it after doing my gauge switch. I decided to use lions brand 24/7 yarn which is all cotton and beautiful texture. Anyway, I’m having a hard time figuring out which is the right and wrong sides. I just finished row 7 (with my starting 2 yds on the lower right) and this side looks like the right side of the fabric but not for sure. Am I correct? Thanks for your help. Barbara aka baba.
Hi Barbara! The fabric made from this stitch pattern is reversible, and the finished piece is symmetrical, so you can choose which side you would like to face out. I hope this helps!